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MANUAL 



OR 



TRUE GUIDE TO PRACTICAL CUTTING. 



EVERY STYLE OF GARMENT TO FIT THE HUMAN FORM. 



By WILLIAM GLENCROSS, 



Author of "A GUIDE TO PRACTICAL CUTTING," and of the "CUTTER'S MONTHLY JOURNAL, AND 

SEMI-ANNUAL REPORT OF FASHIONS." 



I^ OISTE VOLXIME 



ILLUSTRATED BY DIAGRAMS OF NEARLY EVERY STYLE OP GARMENT THAT IS NOW WORN 
BY EITHER MEN, YOUTH, OR t:HILDREN; ALSO, LADIES' CLOAKS, BASQUINES AND 
HABITS BY ACTUAL MEASUREJIENT, COJIBINED WITH PROPORTIONS. 



NEAV YORK: 

PUBLISHED BY WILLIAM GLENCROSS, 212 BROADWAY. 



1866. 



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Entered, accordiiif; to tbo Act of Congress, in the year one thonsand eiglit hundred and sixty-six, by 

Wir.LIAM GLENCnoSS, 
in the Clerk's OITiee of the District Court of the Soutliern District of New York. 



3 1^3^ 



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7-^3^5^ 



PREFACE. 



In the iiiti'oductiiin of this my scooiul 
work on cutting, I Itcgh'avc to teiKh'i" my 
thanks to tlie trade for the lil)eral ])atron- 
age extended to my former work, tlie 
execution of which Avas in some respects 
(h'fective, l)eing got up under ratlier un- 
tavoralile circumstances, tlie engraver liav- 
ing made nu; guilty of sevei'al mistakes. 
But, notwithstanding the aforesaid mis- 
takes, the principles of no other work have 
ever l)een so generally well received and 
extensively ado2)ted, wherever the woik 
has gone and its ])rinci])les understood. It 
always made its iutluence felt l>y introduc- 
ing to us new customers. Indeed, it has 
heen generally acknowledged inipossil)le 
to spoil a garment \\ith only a niodei'ate 
share of capacity on the pai't of the oper- 
ator. The demand for the work heing at 
this time more extensive than at any 
former period, it has induced the author 
to set his miiul to work, and, after a good 
deal of labor, study, and care, he Hatters 
himself that he has produced a work that 
will not only meet the re(piiri'ments of the 
ti'ade, liut when reduced to practice will 
meet their general a])prol)ation. The new- 
work is liased on ju'ecisely the same ])i-in- 
cijiles as the old, Imt stripjied of all extra- 
neous matter that would tend to emliairass 
the mind of the youthful cuttei- ; while at 
the same time the older and moi'e ])i'acticed 
cutter will ])erceive and a]»preciate the 
philosophical or cause-and-etfect principles 
which characterize the entire work, the 
principle 1)eing hased on the anatomy of 
the human form, whatever that form may 
l)e, gl\ing the reipiisite material to cover 
all exr.b.'rances, and also to diminish the 



([uantity whenever a deficiency or lack of 
material is found in eijual proportion. 

We have had oui' doctors or ])rofe.ssors 
in this i)rofession, who dis})lay as much 
cajiacity for giving names as their name- 
sakes in the medical profession to disease, 
and like the latter seem to Ije e(puilly iuca- 
])al)le of producing a remedy to cui'e the 
disease, they will describe to you the high 
shoulder and low shoulder, long l)ehind 
and short behind, stooped and extra erect, 
nai-row chests and full chests, hollow 
backed and nmnd backed, and some of 
those doctor.s will fipply loud-sounding 
names to their so-called systems or theories, 
such as geometrical, mathematical, and 
anatomical, Szc, which sometimes have the 
etfect to dazzle, to blind the individuals 
they attemi)tto dupe, by i)ro])t)sing to teach 
them their theories, and in most part to 
gentlemen who are much more ca])alile of 
teaching them ; Init nevertheless the above 
description of terms has a tangible exist- 
ence, the fitting of a garment to which the 
afoi'esaid doctors neithei' comprehend noi' 
understand. But all these forms ai'e as 
easily fitted by a caivful olj.servance of tlu' 
])rinciples herein contained as that of the 
proportionate structure. I ilo not ])retend 
to say that the principles containe(l in this 
work will necessarily make every man a 
first-rate cutter, but we do ])ositively assert, 
unless he uses these ])riucij)les or those of 
a similar cliai'aetei', he never can cut a 
garment suited to the \arious sha2)es of tlu; 
human fin'in. 

We are also fidly aware that the me- 
chanical and artistical capacity of some men 
is veiT limited, and there are manv in the 



[Preface. 



cutting profession, at the present time, who 
can never Ije a success, and are entirely out 
of their uatural element, being so organ- 
ized as to fit them for very difterentpurj>oses, 
were they to stndy tlieir own organization 
and its tendency. As there are many cnt- 
tcrs in the profession wlio entertain some 
jirejudice against instruments for measuring 
tile Lody, we have laid down a plan in the 
present woi'k l)y which the measures can 
be taken raid the system used without the 
use of tlie instrument ; we have also a ne"\v 
instrument \inder way, which, we think, 
will enable the operator to take the meas- 
ures with greater accuracy. 

To till ISC who use our system there are 
many tilings iu the new -woi-k an lilch will 
render it invaluable to them ; it will show 
the application of the rule to many gar- 
ments which they are only on certain occa- 
sions called upon to cnt ; it will also 1)e of 
vast importance to see the illustration of 
the rule to some of the various missliapeii 
customers that I have been called ui)on to 
cut garments for at various ]iuriods during 
the past three years. As a w^nk of refer- 



ence it will be invaluable to all, whether 
regarding the naval or military unifoi'ms, or 
children's clothing. Everything is deline- 
ated so as to meet the recpiirements of the 
trade. It is believed no other Avork ever 
published contained an equal amount of 
useful information. 

In conclusion, I beg leave to say that the 
present work has cost me a great deal of 
care and study iu the transfer of my ideas 
to its columns. The princii:)les Iierein con- 
tained are not of doubtful import, but are 
the production of a thorough, practical 
tailor, and are used by thousands through- 
out this country and Canada, and I feel it 
to l)e a source of gratification to me to be 
enabled to point to hundreds of individuals 
scattered throughout the country, that are 
in possession of wealth and comfort, who 
will most frankly acknowledge they are in- 
del>ted to tlie aforesaid principles and their 
author for all the wealth they possess ; and 
hoping they will be the means of enhanc- 
ing wealth and comfort to thousands yet 
ill the future, is the desire of the author. 
WILLIAM GLENCKOSS. 



/'/'■OE. 












-^ ~')i 





ON MEASUREMENT. 



V^e would solicit the earnest attention of tlie 
reader, or student, to the measuring part of the 
principles laid down in this work, for the obvious 
reason, if you measure right, you will surely cut 
right. As an illustration of tliis fact, we will 
relate the following circumstance, which occurred 
in my office about three weeks ago : A cutter 
was there from Easton, Pennsylvania, who was 
using my rule, who had learned it from the book, 
and made the remark, that he got along very 
well, the only alteration being occasionally to 
hook in the top of side scam. Our answer to 
hiin was that hi^ took either the elliptic measure 
too tight, or the sye and di'imeter crosswise too 
loose, or the bUide measure too long, either of 
which would ]>roduce it. The same day we had 
a gentleman from Elizabeth, New Jersey, who 
came in for a cutter, and who had one of our pu- 
pils who had learned with us during the past year, 
but who was now going West. He remarked, 
ill the presence of some eight or ten persons then 
ill my office, that during the year he had been with 
him he had yet to alter the first coat. This was 
a success unparalleled, and entirely attributable 
to the fact, that he thoroughly understood how 
to measure. Some individuals from the country 
will sometimes tell us that they frecpiently have 
customers to measure who have such shocking 
b:id-futiiig coats on, that it is impossible to 
get a correct measure. Our answer is that 
in such cases the most of tailors have two or 
three or more coats in their store or slio[), and 
they could slip one of these coats on tor the 
time being, in order to get a correct measure ; 
and if tliere is no otlier alternative, let them 
draw tl'.e bad-fitting coat, close upon him, and 
pin it together lor the time being, so as to get 
as correct a measure as possible, so that tiie 
next tailor he may have to call u[»on to cut him 
a coat may not liave the same cause of coni- 
j)laint. Our advice is never to mc'asure over a 



sack coat. TliisgarmtMit, requiring greater length 
of back ii-oni the bottom of sye upwar<l, requires 
an extra allowance of three-fourths or one inch, 
and in cases where tlie measure is taken over a 
sack, this extra allowance should not be given in 
drafting. With these preliminaries, we will 
now call the reader's attention to Figure 1. On 
measurement, draw the coat you are about to 
measure over into its proper place on the cus- 
tomer ; have it buttoned ; examine the coat you 
are about to measure over, whether it is too low 
in the sye or too high, because, if care is not 
taken, you would be likely to fall into the same 
error ; then feel the socket-bone, or nape of neck, 
as some call it, and if the collar seam is not 
right on it, then mark it with a jtiece of chalk ; 
tlien take the measuring scpiare with the solid 
elbow in your right hand, and cause your cus- 
tomer to raise his arms, and [)lace the elbows of 
S([uaie close up under arm ; then let the arms 
fall down to their natural position, and as they 
fall down draw the two elbows of square close 
together on the body ; then step to Hio right 
side of your customer and take a side view, and 
see whether the elbows are placed right straight 
across the body or not; then put a mark on 
centre of back on the upper side of square, and 
establish the point of bottom of sye on back, 
then a{)ply the square at natural waist ; at hol- 
low of waist, just above the hip-bone, draw the 
elbows close together, let it be straight across the 
body, and make a mark on centre of back 
underneath. 

We will now call the reader's attention to 
Figure 2, or diameter lengthwise. Take 
ineasuiing square in your left hand, just l)elow 
the solid elbow ; then raise your (-ustomer's left 
arm with your right and [tut the solid elbow 
close up uiidc'r the arm, then let yjur customer's 
arm fall straight over it ; let the s((uare be fiat 
to th(! body and closi; up to the front of arm, 



[On Measurement. 



tlie square being straight up and down; tlien 
tai\e your right hand and fetcli tlie slide down 
on shoulder; let your left hand be holding the 
square flat to the body at the same time, or you 
might get it too far in toward tlie neck or too 
much out; then look between the two elbows 
and count the numbers, say 5i inclies. 

We will now proceed to Figure 3, or diame- 
ter crosswise. -Take the solid arm of square in 
your left hand, with your fore-finger projecting 
or resting on elbow, as represented on the figure ; 
raise your customer's left arm with your right, 
put the square underneath, as represented, with 
the solid elbow close to the front of sye ; 
then fetch tlie slide close up behind the arm, 
press them closely together, but not too tight; 
then draw the square out and examine the side 
next the body, and count the numbers between 
the elbows, say 4^, and then proceed to Figure 
4, consisting of shoulder, sye, and elliptic meas- 
ures. Take the long arm of square in your 
hand, a little below the elbows, so as to enable 
you to command it with more ease; raise your 
customer's left arm with your right, and place 
the elbow of square close up under arm, and let 
your customer's arm fall over it ; let the arm of 
square be flat to the body, and close up to the 
front of sye; then stroke down the shoulder of 
your customer and loosen your hand from the 
front of sye, so that the shoulder may be in a 
natural and easy position ; then apply your meas- 
ure up to socket-bone ; see that the pivot of 
measure is properly turned and the measure ap- 
plied in a straight direction ; this we call shoul- 
der measure ; we will suppose it 12 inches ; then 
apply your measure right over shoulder-blade to 
the centre of back at bottom of sye, (see Figure 
1,) be sure the measure is drawn in a straight 
direction ; tliis we call blade measure, and sup- 
pose it to be 17 inches; we will then withdraw 
tlie square, and draw the inch measure under 
the arm, and throw it over the right shoulder, 
so as to prevent its twisting, then raise the arm 
and |>lace the square in the same position again, 
flat to the body and close up to the front of 
sye ; then draw the measure to the centre of 
back, under arm, give the measure a gentle 
pull and then let it rebound back to a breath- 
ing point, and touch the centre of back, no 
matter bow hollow the back may be; this we 
call sye measure, say llf inches; tiieii draw 



the pivot in the direction and apply measure to 
natural waist ; draw your hand right along the 
body in a straight direction, if there are wrin- 
kles in the coat gather them up ; give the meas- 
ure a little pull and let it rebound back, and 
touch natural waist ; this we call elliptic measure 
and suppose it to be 13^ inches, (see Figure S). 
We take another proof measure for corpulent 
men only, as represented by |^ waist on Figure 
S ; when we are taking the natural waist and 
marking underneath on centre of back, we also 
put a mark underneath at side; and when we 
are taking shoulder measure with the square 
straight up and down, we put a mark inside of 
square, at side, on natural waist, tiius produc- 
ing a cross ; we then apply a measure from the 
cross to the natural waist, and use it in connec- 
tion with the elliptic, in the case of corpulent 
men, so that the one can be a corrective of the 
other; whatever difference exists we generally 
divide it. 

We will now finish with the inch measure. 

Apply measure from socket-bone at neck to 
bottom of sye SJ inches ; natural waist, I7j. full 
length, 19^ ; skirt, 3) ; next, length of sleeve 
from centre of back to elbow and sleeve hand ; 
next, width of elbow and hand at the most 
prominent part ; next, breast and waist measure, 
as represented on Figure 6 ; which completes 
the coat measure with the measuring-square. 
We will now describe how the rule may be 
used, and the measures taken without the 
square, in the following manner: Take the 
plain square, the short arm in your right 
hand, place it on the point of shoulder, touching 
the extreme point of shoulder-bone with your 
finger, and then lay elbow on said point, and 
let the long arm run straight across to the other 
shoulder, and make a mark underneath on cen- 
tre of back ; then take the square and raise the 
arm of your customer, and put the long arm of 
square straight across under arm, make a mark 
on coat both in front of sye and behind on top 
of square ; then lay the straight edge of square 
close up to the front of sye, and make a cross 
mark at the front of bottom ; then let the edge 
of square range with the back seam of coat, 
with the top of short arm ranging with the 
chalk mark at back sye ; then put a mark on 
top of square at centre of back. You will, 
tlirougb this mi^ans, have established the depth 



Ox Measures! KNT.] 



of sliouliler, aiul also the bottom of S3'e ; also 
a point at tlie bottom of sye in front, from 
vvbich to take the siioukler measure and blade, 
and also tlie sye mcnsnre and ecliptic, wliicli 
should be taken with an inch tape from 
the cross mark in front of sye to tlie various 
points in the maimer we iiave hitherto de- 
scribed. The natural waist can be marked by 
laying the short arm of a common square in the 
hollow of waist, with the long arm running 
straight across, and making a mark on back- 
seam in the same way I have described. In 
measuring by this plan care should be taken 
that the coat measured over should not I)e 
moved from its first position. The depth of 
sye and natural waist may be also very cor- 
rectly taken with the inch measure by the plan 
represented on Figure •'5 : Take the point of inch 
measure in your left hand as represented, draw 
the measure over riglit shoulder, around the arm, 
along underneath, and across the back, under 
the left arm, around the sye and over shoulder, 
and then place both ends of the measure in one 
hand, and draw the measure tight, and place it 
straight across the back with the other. The 
natural waist may be marked by putting the 
inch measure straight around the hollow of 
waist, and holding the measure tight in front, 
while you mark it with the other hand under- 
neath ; behind, the diameter lengthwise and 



crosswise may be used in the following manner 
by using .'jj graduated iMches for the length, 
and ii for the width. 

In extreme high or low shoulders or flat 
bodies, tliis [)lan would not work so well. 
Figure 7 is au illustration of the principle on 
which the rule is based, the shoulder joining 
at the centre line and on the line diameter 
lengthwise; the extra length of shoulder more 
than back from the bottom of sye up is joined 
to the back in this case, while the same (pian- 
tity is shown on forepart, maikcd by a dotted 
line, which also shows the natural shoulder, 
according to fashion. 

Figure S is a diagram exhibiting the appli- 
cation of the measurement, and also a centre 
line all the way through from the middle of 
diameter on back to the centre line, which 
runs to the centre of diameter on back while 
in a joining position to the shoulder; this can 
only occur, however, in certain pro[iortions. 
The measure taken from front of sye away to 
J7A at top of back is one we never use, but some 
of our friends use it as a corrective in case 
they should take the depth of sye on back too 
long or too short ; by the ap[dication of this 
measure thej' can renn.'dy it, but if the depth 
of sye on back is taken ^correctly it is entirely 
useless. 




DESCRIPTION OF PLATE '2. 



now TO DRAUGHT FROCK-COAT. 

We would claim the rcatler's attention wliile 
we proceed to draught a coat by the measures 
we liave given in the foregoing measurements, 
which are as follows : Diameter lengtiiwise, 5i 
inches ; crosswise, 4i ; shoulder measure, 12 ; 
blade, 17 ; sye measure, llf; eliptic, 13j; depth, 
of sye on back, 8*; natural waist, 17^; full length 
19i; length of skirt, 39; length of sleeve to 
elbow, 20; to hand, 32; width of sleeve at elbow, 
10; sleeve hand, 5; breast, 18; waist, 16 ; which 
completes the measure. We would remark in 
the outset that the coat should not be draughted 
as it is laid down in the diagram, but with the 
construction line to you ; it is only laid down in 
tills way so that the reader may more easily 
understand and comprehend it. How to draught 
back, Figure 1 : Draw construction line from 
to 39 ; lay elbow of square on at 0, with the 
long arm in from construction line li graduated 
inches, at 17^ or natural waist, and square in 
top ; then draw back line from to 19|, or 
full length of waist; mark down on back S^, or 
depth of sye accoroing to measure; square this 
line across by back line, then lay your diameter 
lengthwise 5^, resting on 8^ at bottom of sye, 
and elbow resting on 3, and draw the line 
diameter lengthwise across, which is also depth 
of shoulder ; then establish centre of diameter 
by dividing the 5^, which is 2| ; then mark 3 of 
a graduated inch on either side of centre, which 
is'tiie fashionable width of back pitcli ; then 
(haw the two lines of back pitch from -Jj and 
Gg, these we call the lengtiis. We will com- 
mence the widths by marking on toj) 2i gradu- 
ated inciies, square it up, and raise the point at 
2i, i of inch lor spring ; in stooi>ing persons it 
should be less, not more than i, and in extreme 
cases, not over. J, then mark the widih of back 
at natural waist, say 2 graduated inches ; we will 
now proceed to the bottom line of pitch, and 
tind the widtii of back ))y laying on the elbow 



of square at llf, on dotted line with 11|, which 
is sye measure, resting on back line ; then 
deduct your diameter crosswise off, which is 4^ 
thus requiring a width of back of 7^ ; add to 
the upper part of pitch for flishionable width 
of shoulder from g to ^ inch to 8 ; draw line from 
8 to 2i and from 7^ to li at natural waist ; 
and then produce a gentle curve from to | 
and from S to 7i, and form shoulder and side- 
seam as model ; mark the bottom of back skirt 
as 4 inches, and rule the back plait with as 
gentle curve as model. 

How to draught forepart, Figure 3 : 
Draw construction line from to 22, sipiare 
in top ; mark down from at top to find bot- 
tom of sye, your shoulder measure with the 
width of top of back included, with ! inch 
added for shoulder and backseam, say 2- for 
top of back, and 10^ would make 12i, the; 
shoulder measure being 12, and i inch for mak- 
ing up, would constitute 12i, or 10:^ to bottom 
of sye ; then take your back, laying the bottom 
of sye of back on that of forepart, backseam on 
construction line, and mark the line bottom of 
pitch by that of back, also the line diameter 
lengthwise ; then run up the top of back to the 
top of forepait at 0, and mark line depth of 
shoulder at 3 by that of back ; then square these 
lines across ; and we will establish our widths by 
marking on top, from 0, the sye measure, or 1 If, 
inches (what we mean by the sye measure is the 
measure taken from front of sye, under arm, to 
centre of back ); we will now divide the 1 If in 
two parts, making 5g the half; we also add i 
inch lur seams, making G§ ; this being t!ie part 
that front of sye comes to, the other half to iff 
being only given to produce proportion in 
dranghling,as,l)y casting a glance on the diagram 
below, one-half the sye measure is occupied by 
the back, and the other half with the A inch is 
occupied vvilh the diameter crosswise, which 
is deducted from the sye measure to 7|, illus- 
trated ou Fissure (i, and markeil diameter cross- 

























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Plate 2.] 



wise. We will now proceed with Figure :i by 
drawing the line from 11^ to bottom, on the 
square, also the line from Gf front of sye; we 
will now come to the line of pitch, and mark 
rom the line at front of sye our diameter cross- 
wise, with tiie ^ incli added for seams, to li, 
which is the top point of sideseani ; we will 
then nieasure the length of our sideseam from 
this point by applying the sideseam of back 
down construction line, as to 20 and 22, then 
square these lines across. The length of side- 
seam can be also attained in the same manner, 
as Figures 4 and G, by sweeping from 3i to 20 
at natural waist by 7i at point of sideseam, 
and the bottom line in the same way ; the 
point of sideseani being established l-J inches in 
from construction line, we mark i the distance 
to said line, for the purpose of forming side- 
seam, and we mark I inch in at natural waist ; 
we will then lay on back, as representeil by 
Figure 5, dotted line, with the side touching at 
1 inch in at natural waist, ami J the distance 
from li at sidepoint ; then apply your elliptic 
measure from Gi, or 12, at tlie bottom of sye, 
to 13| at natural wajst, and move sideseam in 
or out according to measure ; then mark dotted 
line all the way by the side of Ijack, and form 
the sideseani according to model. We will 
now mark from Gf at the bottom of 
sye i the sye measure, being nearly 3 inches 
each way along the bottom and front, as a guide 
for crossing lines in the forming of sye ; we will 
also establish our centre line by marking 2f 
inches from front of sye on line dianu^ter length- 
wise, and is one-half the diameter crosswise, 
with the J inch added for seams ; then tike 
your back and place the line depth of shoulder 
on centre line, witli the top of back touching 
tlie line of forepart ; the top of back pitch may 
also touch the line depth of shoulder on fore- 
part (see Figure 8) ; then apply your blade 
measure to 8|, which is 17 inches ; this part of 
the coat being all on the bias, and the front of 
sye should be stretched i inch, therefore no extra 



allowance is required for making up ; the shoulder 
should be changed up or down at this point to 
correspond with the blade measure. It it is 
found necessarv, then form shoulder by round- 
ing it off i inch from centre line to point of 
shoulder (see model,; then form your sye by 
touching the 3 on front and bottom, and about 
i ofinch in front of line, and | inch each way in 
crossing around the bottom corner, and ^ below 
the bottom line ; lay on back as Figure 5, and 
ap[ilv waist measure along the natural waist to the 
front, l() inches ; add f of inch for making up, and 
take out V of h inch, unless in cases of large 
waists, wlii'ii no V should be taken out, and no 
allowanct! given for making up, as it will always 
stretch sufficient tor that purpose ; in small 
waists the V should be enlarged in proportion, 
and not rounded off in front to its seeming re- 
quirement by the measure, which will prevent 
the breast from rising up in tVont when but- 
toned ; ap[ily A breast measure from line in 
front of sye to 1-55 in front, and also to 13^ at 
top, and form breast by those points ; then draw 
line from IJ down from GJ to 13.^, and form 
gorge as m(jdel. ]\[ark along the l^ottom from 
construction line G inches, and draw a line 
from bottom of sye to G : mark up said line lA 
from bottom, then up from U 2 inches, and 
place the natural waist in its proper place ; 
then form bottom of sidebody by the U, giving 
it a gentle curve, and form the front by drawing 
the line by U to 2 iq) from bottom ; then hol- 
low the sidebody, as model, by crossing at the 
natural waist, and giving about \ inch of spring 
on either side at bottom ; take out V of k inch 
from lOA to 11 when the arms are well forward, 
which indicates a narrow chest ; I breast is too 
niNcIi to add in front at I of ; it may I-e reduced 
i inch wert! the sye measure at 12J, and also 
when at lU, should be increased in proportion 
as the arms are l)ackward. The skirt and fore- 
part being in Plate 3, we shall describe them 
in that plate. 



DESCRIPTION OF PLATE 3 



Figures 1, 2, ;J,4, ami o are the diagrams of a 
single-breastefl frock-coat. Figure I is tiie 
back, and is draughted in tlie same way as hack 
in Figure 2. 

We will proceed and describe tlie difference 
in draughting the forei)art, Figure 4, from that of 
the double-breast, and as the difference chiefly 
consists ill tiie lapel growing, ton, our re- 
marks will, therefore, be mostly cmitiiied to that 
point. In applying the breast measure to the 
front of breast to wliere the lapel is added, 
it sliould have a reduction of i inch less than 
double-breast, and tlien add 2 inches fur lapel, 
or, in other wi)r(Is, lA inch more than double 
breast witliout hipcl ; the same ailditioii is 
made at waist, including the addition allowed 
for V. As the same skirt is adapted to either 
the single or double-bre&st, with the exception 
that it would require to be shortened one inch 
lor single breast, we will proceed and show how 
to draught it. Draw line from to 22, square in 
top, mark down front 3, 9, and 22 ; then apply 
measure along the waist of forepart, say lo 
niches, with 2 inciies for lapel, making in all 
17 inches, allowing one for fullness, or 18 
inches ; then lay IS on square on 3, with elbow 
resting on IS at top, and draw line from IS to 
3, and also the line defining the spring of skirt ; 
hollow tiie waist about i inch, and give the 
skirt a little round ; mark the length of skirt 
behind by back skirt ; mark the front h inch 
shorter than behind, :nid tbrm the bottom of 
skirt to arrange with that of waist ; the bottom 
of sidebodv should be [ilaced in a joining posi- 
tion on top of skirt at 18, and the spring of 
skirt made to arrange with tliat of sidebody. 

How to draught sleeve, Figure 3, which is 
adapted to either coat on this plate or that on 
plate 2. Draw construction line from to 32 
to elbow 20 ; mark i inch longer than real 
measure, both at 20 and 32, for seams ; measure 
around the sye of your coat, which we wiil sup- 
pose about 15 inches : then mark from U 3, 
graduated inches, and square these lines across ; 
then mark across at 3 S inches, or iialf thesye ; 
then draw a line from 8 to 0, divide said line in 
two, and square down to 3 by said half which 
is 3 graduated inciies ; then sweep from to 8 
by 3, and then straighten the curve a little 



toward the front and the least shade behind • 
then mark 9 inches inside at elbow and I out- 
side ; draw forearm seam by 9 from 8, sweep 
around the bottom of sleeve from 32 by 0, mark 
the width of sleeve hand 5 inches or whatever 
width you desire it, and form the curve of back 
arm according to model. If it is desired the 
sleeve should be shaped, the forearm may be 
lioUowed 5 of inch, to form the underside meas- 
ure around that part where the underside 
should be 8 inches or $ sye ; then cui-ve the 
back arm of underside same as that of upper- 
side, and the sye part as model. Figure 5 is a 
re[)res.'ntation of the low roll of single breasted 
frock, and how to produce it by throwing the 
crease in advance ot point of shoulder ; if re- 
quired to roll to waist, the stand up ma}' touch 
the point of shoulder. 

Figures 6, 7, and 8 are the diagrams of a fash- 
ioii:il)le morning coat of the half-frock style. 
How to dranght back. Figure 8. This back is 
draughted the same sis the otliers, with the fol- 
lou'ing exceptions : the back pitch is raised 
i inch higher, and the top of back i incli 
wider ; when forming shoulder, the star mark 
on line depth of shoulder on back should be 
placed on centre line ; it is cut ^ inch longer at 
waist and ^ vvider, and the skirt is cut much 
shorter. Of forepart. Figure 7, it is single- 
breasted, and has the addition of one inch added 
to front more than half breast, and has 1 inch 
addded to waist. We give two different styles of 
skirt to this coat; tiie style most slanted, when 
used to this forepart, should h ive the forepart 
more slanted off' toward the bottom, as it is 
not designed to button at waist. How to draft 
skirts. Figure 6. Draw construction line from 
o to 13^, which should have been marked 14J ; 
to correspond withleugth of back ; then mark 
down from 9 inches, and mark it in from 9 1^, 
mark it inside also at 1 inch, lay on square 
at 1 and 1^, and draw top line to 18; mark 
down from IS |,and form the top of skirt from f 
to 1 as model, and round ofs kirt from 1 to 9, (the 
9 should be on the outside.) Either skirtcan be 
draughted by drawing either separate lines from 
18 to 17i or 14, and forming the curves accord- 
ing to model. This skirt uiay be worn either 
with or withous the flap. 



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DESCRIPTION OF PLATE 4. 



Pigs. 1, 'i, '.> arc till' (li;ii;i-ains of two ditt'er- 
eiit styles of coat, tliiMnic back l)t'iiifi' suited 
to fitluT f()it']iai-t. I'Mg. I is tlie Imek, and 
is drafted same as last, witli the exception 
that the skirt is lonu'er, and the hack at 
natural waist j of an incli narrowei-. How 
to draft f()rei)art, tig. 2 — draw construction 
line from o to -U, the u]i]ier part of tliis coat 
heing essentially similar to the one we have 
just described, we will conhne our ivmarks 
to those ]>oints of the diagram which are 
dilterent. It will lie seen that this coat is 
not thrown in so close at the waist as the 
one that was cut all the way through, wliich 
we last described, nor does it re(;[uii'e it, not 
having the sanie chance to stretch across the 
waist that the other has. it will he seen the 
tojiof skiit is formed by a linedrawn straight 
across on the sijiuiie from (lie jioiiit of spiing 
at ()tV, then nu^asure tlie width of bottom of 
side-body and give the same distance from 
."iA on to]) of skirt, with j inch added for 
fulness : for s])ring of skirt mark down con- 
struction line from to)i ol' skirt '.(graduated 
inches and 2| out on the square, and draw 
tlie spring as model, giving it a gentle curve ; 
for forming the bottom )f skirt, draw theline 
fr(mi ;?7 on inside and outside by construc- 
tion line, then mark on fiont of lireast i 
breast measure, with 1 inch added, then 
draw the dotted line from K'll on breast to 
1(5^ at l)ottom on the square, add f of inch 
at front at natural waist, and form front of 
bi-east and bottom of skirt as model. Fig. 3 
is a register form of business coat, and is 
drafted in the same way as the preceding 
forepart, with the exception of the lireast, 
which is cut with a small la])])ell and the 
skirt being cut somewjiat longer, tliere is a 
<le<luction of h iiK'li less than half-breast foi' 
front of breast wheic it joins the lapjiell. a 



tish taken out of ^ at to]), and the Iaii]iell is 
2 inches in width, the front and bottom of 
skirt is formed similar to fig. 2, but not so 
much rounded at bottom of skirt. 

Figs. -I, ;■), I'), S, it are the diagram!? of a 
jashionable dress coat; the cut of back and 
fore])art is similar to that of frock, but rather 
a closer ht : the waist is cut shorter, being 
1 inch below natural waist, and from ii to 
1| in width at this point ; the breast is cut 
same as that of frock, excepting lieiug 
rounded off more towards the bottom, it not 
lieing designed to button. The bottcun of 
])reast is f of iiu'h fnun dotted line at l)ottom 
to arrange with the steji of skirt. Fig. \*'>h 
in front of breast is an eri'or of the engra\cr 
and should be lOiV, to correspond witli half- 
breast nieasu re. F'ig. 8 is the collar, and is 
desigiu'd to roll the breast neaily to the 
bottom, to those who desire a less roll they 
will make the lound of stand up somewhat 
less and to coiresjiond with the roll they 
desire. Fig. .-) is the skirt, and is drafted in 
the following way : Draw line from i> to 2ni 
and scpiare in to 1 at top, mark down from 
(I !) inches, or half-breast measure, square in 
trom i) 'Ji: graduated inches, then lay elbow 
of s(iuare on at 1 , with arm resting on 2^, and 
draw dotted line at top to 10, mark down 
fiom IC. h or 'i of im-h, also the stej) oiu" inch 
in width at front, and aliout oA in length, 
tlien curve the top from A to 1, raising about 
I inch above dotted line at centi-e of skirt, 
and form back skirt fiom 1 to 0, there is a 
plait to add to this i>art of skirt, mark the 
width of bottom from f> to 6^, draw line from 
1(1^ to 6, and form front of skirt with a gentle 
curve to the amount of | of inch at the centre 
of the h'ugth of shirt. Fig. 7 is a diagram 
illustrating the roll of breast of tig. 2, and 
als(i of single breasted sack, plate tlie tjth. 



12 



DESCRIPTION OF PLATE 5. 



Figs. 1, 2 are the diagrams of back and 
forepart of a double breasted coat of the 
register form. There is but little connected 
with this diagram requiring any considerable 
extended remarks from some of the otlier 
coats we have described. The waist is at the 
same length and should be shortened or 
lengthened according to fashion ; the top of 
pitch of back is raised a little highei- than 
those we described, but is taken oft" the ]ioint 
of shoulder at sj^e, and gives it s(miewliat the 
ai^pearance of a low shoulder, but this is 
entirely regulated by the blade measure, and 
is simply a change of seams, some t>ntertain- 
ing theoi)inion (and justly too) that throwing 
the seam well on top of shoulder makes the 
customer look more square, and adds a 
much better appearance to the garment ; we 
generally indicate the advance on shoulder 
by a dotted line at tlic origitial slioulder, 
and a star mark on thr line dejith of shoulder, 
the star shonld in all cise's be ])laced on the 
line df])th of shoulde'i', as it would otlK^wise 
make a dift'erence in tlie ciookcdiu'ss oi- 
straiglitness of shoulder to amount to I <>f 
inch, f)r in proportion to the addition niadi'. 
It is all important that these remarks should 
be kept in view, as a well liaJaiiced shoulder 
is the most beautiful part of the coat, i of 
inch would not change itmucii, but it is just 
as well to have it right : the front of breast 
is also in this case i inch less than half- 
breast, and the width of lai)pell is from 2 to 
2^- inches, or according to the dictates of 
fashion ; th(^ curve at bottom of skirt sliould 
be very slightlj' rounded oft". Fig. I) marked 
down from the top of skirt to tix the point 
foi- getting spring of skirt is a guide for figs. 
2 and :>, plate 4th. Figs. 4 and 5 are the 
diagi'anis of what is generally denominated 
an English jacket, but as illustrated in this 
diagram the st^■le is nu)re decidedh' that of 
New York. 
This jacket is cut a good length in waist, 



but not to the extreme that some have bi^^i 
cut, it is 4 inches below natural waist and 3 
in width at this part ; the back from natural 
waist to the full length sliould be gently 
hollowed to range nearly straight with con- 
struction line, a very little spring should 
also be given to side seam below natural 
waist, these garments being generall}' cut 
loose and graceful we give } <)f incli more to 
width of back pitch, and deduct the same 
oft" point of side seam nuirked 1|, and thus 
allowing only \ of incli over diameter cross- 
wise for seams; the collar of these jackets 
may l>e cut to roll them down tf) the natural 
waist, or given a short roll, according to the 
round of stand up of collai'. In long waists 
the spring of side body should be gently 
hollowed and auide nearly to arrange with 
the construction line : the spring under arm, 
after cros^yng natural waist, should take its 
regular range of sju'ing in ])roportion to the 
length of waist ; the side body should be 
cut \ of inch short, or :^, and stretched from 
one inch above natural waist to the bottom, 
and care should b<^ taken to have the linings 
put in full, hotli in length and breadth, ovei' 
side liody, ])aiticularly below the natural 
waist, as tight linings would destroy the 
whole ett'ect of the spring. As thes(:' jackets 
are cut to hang Hat in the sliort skii-t, the 
s])ring of skirt is put at I.V inches. 

Figs. :> and li are the diagrams of liaek 
and forepart of a New York jacket ; we will 
proceed to draft it to the measure we gave 
in the commeucenu-nt of this work. How to 
draft back,ftg. 'S — draw construction line from 
to 31, mark on said line from to natural 
waivStn, full length '2'2. diaw back line bj" 
1\ in from 17. mark down from (» 8i, oi de])th 
of sye on back, then lay your measure diame- 
ter lengthwise on 8^, which is 5|, which will 
place the elbow of stpuue at :?, and draw line 
from 3 or line depth of shoulder and diameter 
lengthwise, divide the dianu'ter, which is 2|, 



riair .'>'{• 




for I't'iiti'i'. ui\(' I inch lo tlic iiiuli'i- part and 
1 j to the u)i)»'r, w liii'li will niai\i' w idtli of 
pitch 21, niailviMl rcs]ircti\ cl y 4.1 and Cij, 
square tlicsc lines acidss, the iijipcr lines hy 
l>ack line, the waist lines \>\ conslrnction, 
niaik on to]> "i.l. and raise the poiiit ^ for 
spiinu'. then lay \ our sipiare (Mi the lower 
line of hack pitch, uilh 11,1 inches or y(Mir 
sye nieasnre ii^stinu on hack seam, deduct 
your dia.nietei- cio.ssw ise off, or 45, lea\"iii^ 
7| foi- width of hack as these i;ariuents are 
cut \ery loose wc add .1 incli. niakiuii' 7f ; we 
mark the u]iper part of jiitch 'i wider, 
luakinti' Si : we mark the width of ha(dv at 
natural wai>I ."i imdies, and lorm l>aci< liy 
the jioints indicated accordinii- to model. 

How to draft for<'part. liu'. (i - 

Draw consti-nction line from n to :'>:2j. 
scpiare in top. then mark down from <> 1(» 
incdies to bottom of sye. the width of to]i of 
l)a('k beiu.u' "24. makin.i;- I'i.l in all. fhusallow- 
ing- ^ imdi for seams, the shouhh-r lieiui;' 12, 
then lay bottom of sye ol' back on that of 
10 oil forepart and mark line of jtitcli antl 
diameter lengthwise and run the ba<dv u\) to 
toil and maik line de]itli of shoulder by that 
of back at :i. scpiare these lines acioss, then 
lay yoni- back on ?,', tomdung line at S, and 
measure straight across your sye measure 
11.1, with tlie ] inch you have achh'd to l)a(d<. 
to give kiosem^ss to this coat, and this leaves 
the diametei- crosswise without anything 
keing ackkr'd. Foi' the follow ing reasons tlie 
point ol' side seam should kei-aised f of inch 
fr<jm S to Ij to gi\(^ the re(|uisite length lo 
ba(d\, as all sa(d\ coats oi' garments not cut 
thi-ough the waist n^quire from J to I in(di 
more length seeiinugly than coats cut 
through, then draw the line by 4| to 4{ in at 
thi]) head, then otablish centreline, whiidi 
is vr diainet(^r crosswise, or "ii, and draw liiu' 
2i I'roni line diameter lengthwise, then lay 
on shoulder of ba(d'i with line depth of 
shouldei- touching centre line, with the to]> 



18 



]iitcli of back touching at :5, and to)i of ba(d\ 
at i:, i-esting on to]) line at 7, then apph 
blade nii^asure from 4', at bottom of s\ e to 
S.l on back at bottom of s\c, \\hi<'li is 17 
inches, (see plate -.'d, lio-. :!i, foi- a]i|ilication 
of blade measure, i mark 2^ np from bottom 
of sye, or I of sye nieasui-e, and :i in from 
construction line, mark length of side seam 
IVom 7 i to IS.l, and 'it.'.] by side seam of ba(d\, 
less 1 of inch, s(piare waist lines acioss, 
mark '.ih and 4 inside on waist line, and draw- 
line from :{ at bottom of sy*^ to 'M. t hen take 
out tish of ■,' at natural waist, ending at \ at 
tiaj) head; the iKtIlowing should be all on 
forepart side, and the si(h'l)ody should be 
raised .\ inch above the line at bottom of sye, 
then foiiu sye as model, sidebody from 7{ lo 
-h imdi up tVom 1^ shoulder from 'M by '21 to 
8, mark 'i of imdi outside of constinction line 
at natural waist for the | taken out under 
aim, then mark side seam as model, with a 
sjiring of 1.] at bottom, a]>]ily i lireast 
measure from front of sye, with I imdi 
added to 14, and draw line to 14 at bottom 
on the s(inare, and square in tlie bottom of 
skirt to length of kack, and form front and 
bottom as model ; to form ne<'k gore diaw 
line from H to k? and form necdv as mothd. 
with the bacdv in a joining ](osition to ' 
shonhk'r, the hollowed side of iish niidei' 
arm should be stretidied ^ of imdi, when it 
will join fair, the sanii' instructions a]iply to 
this as the other _ia(d\et res])ecfing sid(d)ody ; 
when the sidebody ]iart of this Ja(d\et is 
joined and iiroughl to its ]iro]ier place the ' 
to]i of side will be at 8 and thrown out j of 
inch, and the sye not materially differ IVoin j 
lig. 4 : as this garment falls nearly straight, 
being but litth' shajied, we seldom e\-er ap)ily 
the elli]itic measure, indeed it is \ ery ditlicult 
to aiqih' smdi measure, as this part of the 
balance of coat is entirely changed when | 
joineck 



14 



DESCinmiON OF PLATE (;. 



Fio's. 1, '2. :i, 4 :iri' tiic liack and forcjiait 
of single bivastcd sack coat. How to diaft 
l>ack. tig. 1 — diaw constMictioii or liack line 
iVoin n to 33, mark down tVoiii Ni. or d('j)tli 
of sy<' on bai'k, and square it across, then 
lay on sciuare and mark yonr diameter 
lengthwise, which is l)}, inches, and is tlie 
same numbei- up fioin bottom of sye. di\i(le 
yonr diametei- to find a centre, wliicii is -Jz. 
maik J below centre and Ij above to make 
a square slioukler, mark top of back 3 inches. 
and raise it | of iiudi. lay on yonr S(|uare on 
bottom of sye with Ilf, \\hich is your s\e 
measuic on S^. and deduct 4^. whi(di is youi- 
diameter crosswise fioni the sye measure, 
the balaiH'e, 7^, being tiie width of l)ack ; in 
sack coats, which recpiii'e to be cut loose and 
has no seam under aim, we a(hl the h incli 
to width of back, mailings, S(iuar-e u]) dotted 
line to 8 at top and add h the diameter cioss- 
wise to H oi' centre of bottom of syi', niark<'(l 
-k on model, then S(|uare it down to 1, wlii(di 
is 1 incii which sa<'k requires longer than 
other coals, and jilaciMl here to enalile us to 
form the liack correctly, add ':; outside fioni 
S at top of pilch, lorm to]) of liack with a 
gentle cur\e to i. draw line ol' shoulder from 
't on top to J on ]Mtcli, then lorm batdv sye 
from I by S 4:| to 1, mark along the liottom 
.") or .").t incjies. and draw line from 4| to ."J^ at 
bottom, the side may be slightly shaped l-y 
hollowing it 2 illcil if ihe cutter chooses, tlle 
dotted line on shouhler is llie oiiginal back. 
but ill sack coats we generally a}iply the 
strong line or ouler edge to the centre. 

How to draft foriqiait, lig. :> — draw con- 
stniclioii line from <( to 'AH. scpiare in top. 
mark down frmn o <)-}, inclu'S. with :> on to]) 
of back, making bi.!. allowing h inch foi- 
seams, the shoulder measure being \'2 inches, 
then la\ bottom of s\c of back on thai of 



foie[iart and mark line of ]iitch, and diameter 
lengthwise, run it u]) to toji and mark line 
de])th of shoulder by back at 3, then lay on 
ba<-k, as tig. f), marked with a dotted line, 
and maik straight across from back line from 
8i to 4. tile sye measure, with the i inch 
adfh'd. which we liavt^ given to back, the 
back at this jioint l>eing about 8^, to the 



front of sye 4, making ]2\. 



or 



inch nuuv 



than sye measure ; tot)^ is^V the sye measure, 
less 4 inch to give ])roj»ortions for drafting, 
draw line from bottom of sye at 4 to 4 at top 
and also from '■)\ at top, then mark waist 
lines 17f and 2(i| and scpiare them across, 
mark u}) from 4 at bottom 3 inchi'S and from 
4 at bottom 2J, then raise jioint of side from 
9A to 8i, or 1 imdi which sack re(juires moi-e 
length than other coats, reiireseiited b\' tig. 4 
or dotted line, then mark centre line, or^ di- 
anu'ter crosswise fiom iront of s^xc then lay 
line dejiih of shoulder of ba<'k on centre line, 
with back l_\ ing on dtqith of shoulder of fore- 
})art. with to]) of backtoui'hing fore^iart at (i$, 
tlieii a]i])ly blade measure from 4 at bottom of 
sye to S] on bottom of sye on back, on tig 2, 
17 inches, jind form tiie shoulder to corrt^s- 
]ioiid with the iiieasiii-e, tlieii foi 111 sye as 
model, ajijily length of side of back to that 
of forei)art. and S([uare line of boltoni as 
marked, niariv on outside :i inches, which 
should lie about the same width with liottom 
of ba(dv added as back at bottom of sye, mark 
from front of sye half breast, with I'incli 
added to i:!^|'. and draw dotted line on tln^ 
square to 13.j at bottom, swceji from 13J to 
l:*| at to]), and form fioni of l)reast and 
bottom as model, the round of front should 
touch about i of inch in front of dotted line 
at natural waist: to form neck gore (baw line 
fidiii 1] down from 4 at to]i by '2| down from 
ill. and form gore as model. 



I'ldll' f)"' 




I'la/r 7"' 




i:. 



DESCIMITION OF PLATK 7. 



Fi.u's. 1. "2. :!. I ;nv the dinuiaius <ir diuilili' 
l>i-('ast('(l sliort >;n-k. the liacl\ is (irnl'trd tin' 
same as the one \\ r liax'c jiisl di'scri lird. with 
tilt' exec] it ion <il' tu)H)niacl\ liciiiu' ,1 iiicli less 
ill width, thi' r(irr]iait alsn is tlic same, cx- 
ct'ptiiiii- till' .1 iiirli taken utt' hack is uivcii to 
tile li'liLltll iil'shtMlldri . and t hr dun Me hrrast. 
whicji wi' will (h'sciil)!' : Mark in IVmit of 
lircast IVoiii stiaiu'ht line at front of syc half 
bivast to I'i^. and draw straight line iqi to 
12f on hqijM'll. swi't'p front of Incast I'ii to 
12 fi'oiH front of sye. then add :i.l inehes for 
width oflap}>ell to Itij, and draw dotted line 
on the sijuare to I6| at bottom, and I'oini 
front of Ill-east and bottom as model ; fi.n'. 3 
is the slee\e and isad<>]>ted to either of those 
coats, or that in ]ilate (i. As 1 haxc already 
described the ride for draftiiin- sleeve in ])late 
8. and tlierefore a re])etitioii is entirely nii- 
necessar\ . as the only dirt'ereiice is in the 
width. Fiii'. ;U is the collar for this coat, 
and is ilrafted with tlie scale. V\v:. 4 is the 
forepart of another style of sack, adapted to 
tlie same back. It is rennliirly curved from 
natural waist in front to a ])oiiit about bV 
inches inside of dotted line and lA from 
bottom, the other jioints of the foiejiart is 
essentially the same as lit;-, '.i in ])late (i. 

Fijis. (5 and 7 is the liack and fore}iart of a 
New York walkinti- coat. W'e iiave liiveii it 
that name because I claim to lie the original 
author of this style of coat. altlioni;h some 
havegiveii it the name of the French walking- 
coat ; but if is belie\ ed the French had never 
any claims to it: the juinciples herein con- 
tainted are tlh' only ones that has been 
introduced that e\er i-iit this li-arment cor- 
rectly. In till' eX])lanaIion we will contliie 
(Mirseht's to those ]ioints of the diauiam 
which are different froni those of the A'cw 
York Jacket, described on plate (J. fi,u-s. :^ and 
0. The waist is cut lonn-. beinu' ."> inches 
below natural waist and :! in \\i(llh at this 



pari, iheback pilch i> well raised lo L:i\e the 
siioulder a sipiare appearance : as these 
narnii'iilsare cut loose and !j,-racefnl. alihonoh 
formed to the shaiie, the liack at jiilcli has 
.', inch added to width the >ame as sack, 
to tliose who desiie a i-loser lit 1 will Ih' 
sutiicieii; : the iioint oi' side seam at 'ij is 
raised '-j of inch from S to 7',. in (-onlbrmily 
with the princii)le that this style of coat, with 
sidebod\ tj,rowiim-. reipiires thai much more 
leiin-th of ba(-k, it is alsti raised .1 inch hi.iiher 
at bottom of sye. and has a twofold o1)Ject — 
nameh', toa\(>id tlie loUij; ]ioiiit that would 
l)e produced by hollowing it down to the 
bottom of sye, said long jioint not working 
well, being likely to get streti-hed ill putting 
in of sleeve and throw- a wrinkle aci-oss at 
ba(-k sye, whiidi is avoiih-d by this jilan, 
bi'sides the hollowing of hsh being all taken 
out of the forepart side, and being stretclu-d 
a little, as all curves should lie. when Joined 
it will lunc the effect to liriiig the ])oint of 
side down U> line S and throw- it out from \ 
to rV imdi, hence when sidepoint is being 
established in this style of ganni'iit no ^ inch 
should be added to diameter for making up, 
as the taking out of lish iiroduces that with- 
out any aihlition ])y this o])eration. wlieii 
joined it throws length down lielow towards 
natural waist, and iirodiices much tlie same 
effect as if the si(hd>ody liad been cut through, 
but iii-eseiving a different style. In the ap- 
plication of the eliptic nieasiire if should be 
Jshortfortlief sidebody is raised, the natural 
waist being the same, but }. inch allowance 
should be given for hsh under arm, so that the 
one nearly counteracts the other: the hollow of 

sidebod\ fr lie inch above natnial waist 

should lie cut short '.; and stretched that 
amouiil. and the linings kejit full in length 
and breadth to give it full jilay. The collar 
lii;-. 4 is adopted to this coat. 



16 



1)ES( HIPTION OF PJ.ATE s. 



As tliis ])]at(' is exclusively devoted to over 
coats we shall confine our explauatioii to tlie 
extra allowance .u,-i\eii to the measures in 
draftiuii' tiiese style of lianueiits, and in order 
to do so we will lirst ti'ive the measures and 
the allowances, ami then show their a]i|ilica- 
tion. 

Diametei- lenjithwise, ."i^, h inch added. (> ; 
crosswise, 4^, tndded, 4§ ; shoulder measuie, 
12, i added. 12A ; Made, IT. f added, 17f ; 
sye measure, 11|, padded, I2A; elijitic, [:i\. 
f ad(h'd, \'.Vj^ ; (h'])th of sye on l)a(d-v, 84, i 
incdi added, U, the A in(di to l)e given in di- 
ameter h>n<ithwise ; natural waist remains the 
sanu\ full length ditto, front of breast i of 
inch added, the l)reast has 1 inch addetl in 
the above measure, waist should have I inch 
foi- ovei- coat and I foi- linings, if wadde(l : 
the sleeve should be cut to the measure. 

Desciijttion of back, fig. 1 : 'I'he back seam 
is thrown into na-tui-al waist 2 inches in order 
to gi\'e a wider step on o\er coat, from o on 
top to bottom of s_\ (' has i imdi addi'd, 
nuikiiig '.>, and the ^ inch is all given in the 
diameter, making <i. the depth of shoulder 
remaiinng thesauK- as inside coat : on bottom 
of ])it(di the sy<' measure lias j added, mak- 
ing 12.V, one half, jl, being added todiameter 
crosswise, and the other jj to width of back. 
In sa(dvs that aie reiiuired loose we add { to 
width of back at pitch ; the width of back 
at natuial waist is about 2^, (u- accoiding to 
fashion. 

We will now describe forepart, tig. i>. It 
will be ])erceived by looking at bottom of 
sye on foi-e])art and width oi' to]t of back that 
the i inch has l>een added to shoulder mea- 
sure, with 4 inch for making up, thus making 
13 inches, also the j is adileil to the s\"e 
measuic. making 12.', ami tiiat the I2tI is 
divided, with -S inch thi-own to front, at (if 
for seams, and also the diameler crosswise 
with the t adih'd, making in all .It, estab- 
lishes the point of side seam— the side seam 



is also foinied in the same maunei' as frocdv ; 
liy the application of the eli])tic measure, with 
1 or i- of inch added, the centre line is ]iro- 
<luced the same way. t, diameter ci-osswise, 
witii the extia allowance also divided, and 
the shoulder is formed by the line depth of 
shouldei- being placed on centre line and 
apiilying the blade measure with the | 



added, or 17f. there 



sucmiii 



)f imdi 



added to half ])reast for over coat and 2 
inches should l)e added at waist, the neck 
gorge of over coat it'(iuiring to be higher in 
consecjuence of being buttoned up occasion- 
ally, should l)e marked at 2^ or 2i inches 
down from 12.1 at top. and gorge formed 
aci'oidingly. 

Of register o\ er coat fore]iait. Fig. 4, the 
same back is adajited to Ixith foivparts, 
with the excejition that back at top should 
lie :> instead of 2j im-liesfor the register form ; 
in this forepart the construction line is drawn 
to tile bottom of skirt, and the spi-ing of skirt 
is formed by '.* inches down from to}) of skirt 
and 2i outside, the length is icgulated by 
that of the back skirt and scjuared across; 
for forming lap])ell and fiont of breast, i 
bi-east with { of inidi added should l)e given 
to iC), and line of la]i]iell di-awn by the 
stpuiie, the front should be swei>t from front 
of sye from 16 to 14^, the width of lappell 
should be added to Hi. say 3i or 8f to 19|, 
and the dotted line drawn to r.»| at bottom 
(HI the s([uare, then add '2^ graduated inches 
outside at bottom, on long skirt it should be 
3, then draw front (if l)reast from 191 I'.v 19| 
to 2A at bottom, and form bottom as model, 
tig. 7. The spring of this skirt is got by 
laying the elbow of S(puiie on at 20, whiidi 
is the waist measure, including 1 inch foi- 
fulness. thi'U draw line down to il on S(piai-e, 
then s(p\ai-e out to o. and form s])i-ing of 
skirt by o, Imllow waist about | of inch, and 
form bottom In range of waist, the front ^ 
inch shorter than behind. 



I'la/f 8 



ih 



17*. 



i<i' 




I 'lair') 




DESCRIl^TION OF PLATE 9. 



Wf will finish our (li's<'ii]itinii nf surtniit 
()\t'i- cdal l>y I'diiiiiiciiciiii;' with liu's. I!, 4. 'k 
l'"!!;-. :? is the liack. .-111(1 is cut without Imrk 
scani. This back is drafted in the same way 
as tliat of liii'. i, ]ilate S. exce])till,ii- the step, 
and liack pitcli beiiii;- raised ^ ]\\v\i Inuiier, 
which is deducted IVoni jioint of shoulder by 
the ap})li("itioii of blade nieasuic ; the skirt. 
i\iX. 4. is tlie same in every ])aiticular as that 
of ti.ij,'. 7 in ]ilate S, exceptiiiji' i in(di more in 
width at top ; forejiait. tigs, f), there is 
nothiiii;- in this forepait ditteient fiom figs. 4 
and (), ])lat('8, which calls foiconinient. Fi.i;'s. 
1 and 2 an* the diagrams of double breasted 
sack over coat — the back, tig. I. is ;} incdi 
lowei-at Ixittom ol'sye than under sack. The di- 
ameter lengthwise is.->i, with the .1 inch adde(l, 
making i'< and centre at :i the bottom of jtitch 
is ! inch lower than centre, for the ap]ilica- 
tion ol' sye measui'c, which has ^ added for 
o\('r giirncnts to I'Jh. the diameter crosswise 
4), with the ^ added, making 4i; for o\ei- 
garments, being diMlucted from sye measui-e 
lea\es 7i widtli of ]iitch. there lieing no cut 
undei- arm in tliis coat there is no A inch 
allowi'd, but in coat:; which are re(|uired to 
be cut loose and iiiaceful, we add from I to 



.1 in<di in width of back at jiitcii the cutter 
should regulate tiiis by his e.xjierience ;uid 
tlc' requii'enients of his customers. l''or foiiu- 
ing till' bottom of back sye h;df the diameter 
ci'ossw ise is added to 7i^ on bottom of sye — see 
2i and i imdi marlved doAvn from 2h foi- the 
purpose of forming back syi — this inch is 
what sacks requii-e longer than other coats 
from this ])oint uj), the dotted lines marked 
inside at side seam should be foUoweil in 
case the sa(d\. is to be slightly sha])ed, the 
slioul(h*r measure has the iisnal vV incdi added 
as in all ovi^r garments, and the front of sye 
is laid out by the a])j)lication of the sye 
measure, with tlie ^ added — for illustration 
see tigs. 'A and ."), business saidv. ])late(') — and 
the shouhh'r is formed in the usual way by 
thea])))licatioii of the shonldei- measure, with 
I of incli added ; foi- s])riug of skirt inside 
from construction line at 44 should be from 
4i to .54 in ])roportion to the length. For 
information resj)ecting the foimiug of front 
of breast, la]ipell and sjiring in front ;it 

l)ottom. we would |-efel' the reader to the 

description of diagram 4. ]ilale !~i, in ]iage Hi, 
i-egister coat, which is drafted in the same 
w in . 



Di:S( RIPTION OF PLATE 10. 



Corpulent Men's Coats. 



\Vc pi-()jH>s(\ ill jiL-itcs 10 and 11. In liivc 
illustrations oftlic Mj>]ilica.ti(iii of the i-iilc, in 
cases (if cDrpiilciit and dctoiined men of 
various structnics. and will at onctM'xcniplify 
to tiic i-cadcr the entiiv adajitation and easy 
ap])iicatioii of the ]n-inci]i]cs to tlif vaii(Mis 
slia])t'S of tlic liuinan foi-iu ; tiicsc aiv causi' 
and <'rt'rct ininciplcs, oi- iii otlici- words, tlic 
strnctuic jiidduccs tlir incasuiv and tlir 
nicasuiv ajijdii's to the exart jioint wIkmv the 
nicasuic lias liecii taken, tiius tcnudiin^- the 
defoi-niity. if any sucli deformity exists, in 
its ])r()]»ei- ])]ace, and a,i^-]anceat tlie diagram 
will convince the readei' it was no eas\- 
niattei-. 

Figs. 1, ->. :!, ."> and i< are the diagiams of 
tile Nilcs coat, a geiitli man who was bidught 
to lis by his tailor, who said he had never 
l)een fitted. This .st.uctiire is of the stout 
build and short bodied, with liioh or pro- 
minent hij) bones. 

Figs. 4 and 7 are the diagrams of the 
Higliam coat, wlii(di conies under the same 
structure as thatof the Niles coat, but which 
corresjionds in no paiticulaii)oint. exce]iting 
the i)i-ominent hip bones and corpulency. 
We will descril)e the oii(> in connection with 
the other so that the reader may fully under- 
stand the contrast. \vlii(di is not greater than 
the characteristics of the two men. The 
following is the measui-e of the Niles coat : 
Diameter lengthwise, 6 imdies ; crosswise, 
4| : shoulder nieasure, 1H| ; blade, liSf ; sye. 
13; eli])tic, ir> : dejitli of sye on ba(d<, !»^ 
inches; natural waist. 18; full length, 2()"; 
l)ieast, 2U; waist, m. Th.- Highani mea- 
sure : PiaiiK'ter lengthwisi', C] ; crosswise. 
H| : shoulder measure, 14| ; blade, aij; s\-e 
measure. ]4h : elij.tic. KH ; depth of sy.' I.n 
hiirk. 10; natural waist. 17}; full length. 
•i<»i ; lucast, -jy, : waist, 24. In comjiaring 
the length of l)ack to the bottom of sye of 



these two coats, it will be seen that there is 
only \ inch ditference. the one l)eing !»i and 
the other 10. and the diameter lengthwise 
only I of inch difference, the one being at <! 
and the other at G{ ; the de]»tli of shoulder 
being :!.] and :5J resjiectively. and tlms far 
there is a tolerable uniforinit\' in ]U()portio!i 
to the size of gariiieiits. but when we come 
to the uatui-al waist, w liicli is niark<'d 18i, 
(but should have been 18). on the one hand 
and ]7j on that of the other, the uniformity 
ceases, and pioves that th<» largest coat is 
the shortest bodied by | of iiudi ; but when 
we com]iare the length of shoitlders with that 
of ba(d\s. the contrast will a])])ear still more 
remarkably striking, the length of slioulder 
of the Niles coat is II-!]-, while that of the 
Higliam coat is 14:^, making a ditference of 
1,' inches, while the dittereiice on bacdv to 
bottom of sye is oidy i inch, and proves very 
conclusively that the Niles coat is adapted 
to a stooping structui-e, wliileonthe contraiy 
the Iligham <'oat is designed for an en-ct 
structure, the dilfereiice in the contrast being 
I inch, but when we come to coiiteni]ilate til ' 
blade measure the contrast is still greater, 
the Nih-s coat is at 18|, while that of 
Higham's is 21]-, showing a difference of 2} 
inches more in the Higliam coat ; now, this 
to a casual observer might be difficult of 
eX])lanation, since there were only I inch on 
fore]iart and i imdi on back difference, l)ut 
when we come to consider the difference in 
the sye measure, the one Ix'ing at IH while 
the other is at 14^. the difficulty is entirely 
ex])lained, and would lead to the following 
conclusion — that the Niles coat, although a 
stooping structure had his arms Inickward. 
the sye measure lieing not uuire than equal 
to a breast measure of 20, when it is jtlaced 
at 2H, and also giving to the front of breast 
nearly as much fullness as that of Higham's, 



riidf /o 




Platk 10.] 



19 



althou^'li tlic hitter is i-rcct : it is nlsn very 

evident tVnlil tliesye llieasil If i )!' I lie I [iuli;i Ml 

coat that tlie arms aie fiiilliti- I'nrwaid in 
])i(i|i()rti<iii Id tlie lueast tiiaii iisiiallv tniiiul 
ill corimleiit iiii'ii, and tliaf tin' iiinscle of 
slidulder is well dexcldjied, t lie a nns lieini;' 
well turward also carries tlie point nt' si i on Id er 
well forward, ]ilacinii' it at J Ij. 

As we stati'd ill the 1>ei;iniiiii,i;-. liotli these 
garineiits were of the short bodied liiuh hi]) 
bone structure, a class of men that is usually 
more difficult to cut a liarineiit for than is 
i;'enei"ill_A' met with, and the more difficult 
])art we will now call the reader's atti'iition 
to. Ill tliese kind of structures llie natural 
tendency is to work uj> the sidebody and 
baid^ at waist, the hip bones usually coiiiini;' 
in contact siionld the waist of coat toiudi too 
closely at this jioiiit : on the Hiiihani coat the 
bottom of ba(d\ is ]placed in a Joiiiiun' posi- 
tion, marked with dotted lines : when you 
mark the leiio-th of side seam down construc- 
tion line by siih^ seam of liatdi. wIk^ii you 
discover that your side seam c(niies outside 
of construction line, sweeji from 24 or ]>oiiit 



marked to point of side seam- -see sliort 
<l""'''l line l)y 2; this sweep should be 
ap])lied to both naliiial waist and bottom, 
and the lines S(iuared across to <-orrespoud 
with said sweeps, and which will tend to 
shorten the body, which is very essential in 
this kind of coat, then ap]>ly elijitic measure 
with the measure from hollow of waist on 
side, let the lon,i;'est measure l)e the ])oilit of 
side seam, then shorten your sidebody f of 
iii(di shorter than that of back, and stretch 
that ij from about 4 iiudies up from liottom, 
let the liiiiii<;s he full both in length and 
breadth over sidelxidy. and no doubts need 
lie entertained for the result. 

Fiu-. :? is a sle<'ve laid out by dia.uram to be 
used by the scale a.ii<l suited to the Niles 
coat. The scale should be bS for this size, 
I'.lA scale would suit that of the lli<;haiu coat 
in the widths and the ]eii_n1lis should lie to 
measure, or the sleeve toji can be drafted by 
the rule to correspond with the sye. the skirt, 
hy. (). can also lie used for the Hiiiham coat 
with lA inches beiiio- added to the widths. 



20 



JJESCKII'TION OF PLATE 11. 



Corpulent and Misshapen. 



Dcsci-iptioii of tlic lutt" or low sliouldi^r 

(•ojit, iiiis 1 uiid 2, to tile followiiiii- nicasiuv : 

DiaiiH'tiT It'iigtliwisc. 4-^ ; crosswise, -ii : 

shoulder iiK^asure, 11$ ; l)l:ide. ]'>i ; sye 

iiieasiii-e, 11^: eliptic ^'2i : dejitli of sye on 

hack. 8i ; natural waist. UI.l : rull length. 

ISA : bivast, ITi- ; waist 1."). It will lie seen 

by conipaiing the above nieasuic lliat the 

diameter lengthwise and ciosswise are ]ire- 

cisely the same, a ciicumstaiu'e which is ver}' 

seldom met with, this being the only case I 

e\ci' came across in my experience. The 

diaiueter ciosswise in the ])reseiit case is 

extraordinary large and tiiat h'ligthwise 

iM'ing small makes the arm nearly round at 

this })oint, the muscle on low slioiihlered men 

is usually found to be \er_\ small, which is 

generally the cause of tiieir low shoulders. 

the sye measure is at 1 1 [. and when the 

diameter crosswise is dedr.<'ted from it leaves 

a very narrow back. 4{ from llj leaxing ()J. 

(dur engia\'er made it woise by mistake. 

making it (ii| where it should be (ij, ) as the 

low shoulder is the oidy ]iart connecti d with 

this diagram which requires notice, we will 

confine oni' remarks to this jioint Ibr the 

pur])ose of enlightening the minds ol'oiie or 

two of our patrons who lui\e wrote to us 

some time ago, making the iiuiuiry — would 

not the line de]ith of shoulder, ))eing jilaced 

oil centre line, come ill contact witli the 

principle laid down in the rule-namely, 

that as the arms are Ibrward the ]ioint of 

shoulder also goes forward; We .•iiiswer, 

there is only one contingency that can etfect 

this general rule, and that is in the case 

where the diameter lengthwise is extremely 

long, and w heie muscles ;ire e\tensi\ely 

develojied, producing a \'ery high shoulder, 

which is rre([uently met with in stout Imilds 

(but ne\ er in low shouldered men), and are 

found more IVec^uently among Englishmen 



than any other country. We give an illus- 
tration of this exception in the Kolb coat, 
fig. 7. where the diameter lengthwise is lit 
the extreme jioiiit of 74, leaving a depth of 
shoulder of only 'A iiKdies (whereas anything 
like ]ii()]iortioii would }ilace it at 4), and yet 
nothing could illustrate more fully the cor- 
rectness of the jiiiiiciiiles than the con- 
tingen\' here referred to, to look at the \'ery 
large sye produced by the veiy large muscle, 
and the veiy larg<' blade measure from the ■ 
very high shoulder, and thus producing a 
narrow skeleton shouhh^-, entirely adajited 
to this kind of customer, and then look at 
the uatuial waist thiown in about as much 
as the fair proportioned structure, while the 
corpulency is entirely at front, and is it not 
natural that a man with such a capacious 
stomach must necessarilv force his head and 
shoulders back and produce what is termed 
extra erect, then compare this coat with the 
Iligham coat, the diameter lengthwise is 1^^ 
longer, crosswise $ of iiudi wider, the depth 
of sye on back is only 4 inch lower than the 
Higham coat, while the shoulder measure is 
1} inches longer, jiroving very conclusively 
that the customer is extra erect : the centre 
line in the Iligham coat is a,t '21, while in 
this it is '.\\ ; the shoulder measure in the 
Higham coat is at :5f- while in the Kolb coat 
it is only :>, thus the :i.^ jilaced to ci'iitre line 
in the Iligham coat carries the point of 
shoulder to II',, the sye measure in the Kolb 
coat is i inch more than Higham, and the 
diameter crosswise is f more, thus making the 
back of Higham" s coat j oi' inch wider than 
Kolb's, and iilacing the centre line i^ of inch 
fnrtherfrom front of sye than Higham, by ])lac- 
ing the Kolb back with the line depth of shonl- 
der being at S, and centre lineat Hh, it will be 
easily com])rehi'nded how the ])oiiit of shoul- 
der is ]ilaced at lo.l, it will thus be seen that 



('(»r|iiil(Mii ,111(1 .\lisslia|)(M I 



l'l((lr // 




Platk n. 



21 



till- iii-iiicip1<'s work liannoiiions in every case, 
acroiinnodatiuii- itsi^lf In ilie iniiiiiviiiiMits i)\' 
tlic hodv. And iiDU. Iiaxini;- rxplaiiicd the 

r\ce))li(ill. we Would in\ite the leade|l)aek 
Id the lidini of diiiTeSsinli na lliel \ . t lie h )\V 

shoulder. 'The diauieter Iimil;! Iiw is.' hein.u 4.1 
])laces the shouldei' at 1 iiiehc^s. uheivas in 
lair iiro|iorti(His it would l>e at:!, then la\ 
\(iiire\i' to the line diaiuetei- on lorejtart. 
w hie 1 1 is the same a< that on l>ack, l)nt in tlie 
lair ]iro|iortion would lie 1 inch higher, and 
now li\ plaeiui;- the 4 on centre line, and 
eslal)li<hini:' ]ioint of -^houldei- at S^. I also 
ask the reader to follew nn' while wc place 
the fail' projioitioiied line of shoulder '■'< at o 
<ui centre line, anil we a<k what \\ill lie the 
difference at point of shoulder ; It will ke 
just the same al ihi'' |ioint. S;. l>ul ihe klade 
measure will l)e at Itl.^ in placi' of I."-.' : it 
only i-e(piii-es a little slud\ lo peri-eix e that 
l)y k)\vt^rinii' the shmilder \ on only shoiteii 
the blade measure and ni\ e kreadt h to the 
sh()id(k'i- ; while, on the coiiti-ary. by raisiii.t;' 
tli<' shoid(k^r you <inl_\ u,i\e lenn'tli to the 
blade ami diminish the width of shoulder to 
the dinn'iisions of :i fair propiutioned strnc- 
t lire. 

In these three diagrams there ha> l)een 
such contrasts )iresented. the one staiidinu 
iiiimediatel\ connected with the othei- in 
jii.xtapo.sition. which rendeied it necessary 
to give the e.\|ilanatioM connectedly, and not 
in (k'tail, so as l(jeiiablr the reader imue fnll\ 
to understand the |iliiloso|.h\ of the piiii- 
cijiles herein delailed. We will now direct 
attention to ties. :; ;iiid 4. (ji- the ^'oun^•"s coat, 
which is ni'nei;i!l\ denominated a stoopiui;' 
sti'uctni-e. .\ oieal many of these class of 
customers are to )),■ Ikuud ainon.iist shi]i 
carjienters. ship Joincis and blacksmiths, 
m<Mi whose avocations tend lo a de\c4ope- 
meiit of Ihe muscle>. with the arms well 
lorward. and Ilieri4bre produces a narrow, 
ccmliacted chest, and a- the arms ud foiw.-iid 
so does the head, with round liack. which 
constitute th<' leadiiiii- point- of a sloopinu' 
slriicture. The following' is the measuie : 
l>iaiuetci' leULilhvv ise. 'f; inches: crosswise. 
44'; shouldei- me;i-iiic. Pi: blade. I7A: syi' 
measure, kiv : i41iptic, ll'.j : dejilh ofsye on 
kack. S/ : natural wai^t. 171: full leiiulh, 
■i'l ; breast. IS', : wai<t. 17. The nn.st .•\- 



traordinary part of this nn^asiin^ is ll \ 

trenie widih of >\,. nr'a-^niv in connection 

"illl lie slioiilicss of shoulder, but not ex- 

Iraordinary when the shapi' of the customer. 

asre\eale<| thriMlLlh ihe measures, is Inkell 

inio consi<|eiatioii. I s(4ect this measure, 
because t he oi-nl leinan wasa me!(4ianl tailor, 
althouuh 1 had aiiothcr cnstoniei' to cut a 
coat, for t he same w cm4\. which wasauieatei 
I'Xtrenie. the s\e measure beiuL: 1:1 and the 
shoulder IV. with the breast al 1.^. and both 
these ucntlemeU Wore their <-oa|s into m\ 

otiii 11 t he sa iiic da.\ . and a casua I obser\ cr 

would lia\e (|isc(i\ered nothiuL; remarka ble 
in the coals, unlil tlie.\ came to look at the 
naiiowness of t he shoulder in front of s\ c. 
neitheiof the ;ii'nl leuieii apprehended then, 
nor don't know now. liial tlie_\ would bi' ihi- 
snli'ii'ct of a paraizraph in a work on cutlinu'. 
The leiinlh of back to liottom of s\ e is Ioul: 
in coni|iariso!i with Ihat of shoulder, and the 
diameter lenoshwise and crosswise is also 
lari;e. showiiiu,' that the muscles of slnuildei 
are well de\eloped : the ci'ntr<' lin • jilaces 
the jioinl of sh( Milder at '.i-^. which is 11 entire 
harinoux' with the front of s\ e. tin- bica~^t is 
iiairow and Hat. but is to cover a llal surlace. 
Indeed, the w hole diaurain is in perfect Ivccji 
iiii:- with the subject it represents. 

We w(Mdd now call attention to the 
Wilianis coat, li.iis. C> and S. which is also a 
sloopini;- strnclnri' of a moderate t\ [le. and 
which has some points connected with it that 
reiiuiie a careful consideration. The follow- 
iiie is the measure: l>ianieter h'lmlhwise. 
.■)j : ciossw ise, 4{ : shoulder. Pi; bhuh', IS \ 
S\ e. li : elliptic, l:i : deplil of s\ e (111 back. 
1) : natural waist. I 7.1 : full leiiiilh. "in ; breast, 
IS^l : waist. Iti.l. The sye measure and 
slKuilder are liotli the same leno-th, and 
when \M' look at ihe diam<'t<'r crosswise in 
connection with the breast measuii' and s\ e 
measure, we are le(l to the conclusion I hat 

the customer has a lolerabl.X well ih'Vclopecl 

(4iest. but what i< iIh' most exlraor<liiiary 
feature connected with ihis lieure is the 
exireme roundness of bai4<. We ha\e two 
kiiKJs of stoopiiiLi' structni-es. (me whii4i has 
the back a little hollowed al liack s,.am. 
while anolher style is entirely Kmnd on the 
u]iper pari of back, and such is ihe one we 
are now examiniiiL;. The blade measure i- 



•» 



[Plate 1.1 



\isiia11y found very lonfj' in this kind of 
stnirtin''. ;iud the Icick sc;iiii ri'iiiiirrs to be 
rounded, but tiii' (piestion is. Imw nnicli 
rounded and liow '. Tliere is just one way 
to solve that question wlleu \oll come 
acioss a customer of this kind, take tlie 
diameter ci-oss\vise on thi' top of sliouider. 
establish a centre on the top of shoulder by 
a <-halk mark, and from said centie a]i)ily 
a ineasuie tirst to the socket bone, next to 
the centre of diameter, or a ]ioint about tlie 
same distance down, established on back. 
and also to tlie bottom of sye on back, and 
tliesi' measures should l>i' a]i]>lied from the 
bottom of centre line as model, lirst to the 
bottom of sve. lli. -^ extra should be added 



next to tlie ])oint at center 9^. and i incli 
should be added next to the socket bone 8A. 
and .1 inch sluuild be added ; the back and 
shouldei shouhl be rouuded and formed in 
connection with these measures, and in the 
case where theie is a hum]i on back, take the 
d(^]>th of thejuoniinent part of tin- lnim])from 
socket bone, and a)i]>ly the above nu'asures 
from center, and thus be alile to discrindnate 
the amount of round to ,<;ive to sliouldiu' and 
bark seam. We give the above tlie name of 
udssha}ien instead of nufits, as we do not 
intend there should be any of the latter, and 
it dis])lays the artistic ability of the cutter to 
l)e enabled to neutralize the stroui:- ]H>ints of 
the t'ormer so as not to appeal' coiis]iiciious. 



4(1 



SPANISH MANTLE 

<.>R 

CIRCULAR CLOAK 



Jlci2 



Ii 
■12 



riah' /'^ 




4r.5 45 



2:? 



!)i:S( IMPTION OF PLATK 12. 



W'l' \\\\\ di'si'iilii' lliis plate l)y coniuiciic- 
iiiii' w'itli liLis. •-'. ;!, '4. (ir (irrcl< sack. This 
sack is laiil ilnw II ^(1 a> til 111' ilral'tcil li_\ tlic 
scale, lint it can lie al>ii ili-nfti'il li_\ tlic laili'. 
ill till' fiilliiw iiiii' iiiaiiiii'i- : As it is ciislmiiarv 
anil tasliimia lilc til tliiiiw tlic sraiii nrsliuul- 

(liT \M'll nil tiiji ill this vt\lc 111' cnat. \\c 
SUiiUOt thai the e\!ia lell".tll <<( >llii|lllier 
IlllUe than hack llnlll the liotiulll nf S_\ e lie 

adileil til hack, as tu :!A. ami thus li\ aihliim 
till' h inch li i\\ ei- III 111 I 1 1 1)11 liack i'l ir ii\ er cual. 
with The I inch \»hicli sack rei|iiiie- Imiu'er 
ill hack than ntiier cnats. it will estahlish The 

linttiUn 111' >\e nil hack at lU; the jiiiilltiir 
shiillhlel is nil the line diameter lellLithw Im'. 

and the exTra inch is inai ked alin\ e ihe w idrli 
of hack at iiilch ; it i^ inaikeil 1 inch \\ider 
tiiaii under cnat, Imi nia\ lie iiicrea-ed. It' 

a \e|\ Iniise cnat i> li'i | 1 1 i led . the diailieler 

rnissu ise i> imt ie(jiiiied lamer in these than 

other cnats. the extra widtilS lieillli ni\ en mi 

hack and 1'iniit, .1 tiie dianieter is Lii\eiinii 
the hack I'lniii S.', tn 11. and thus the cmistinc- 

Tinll line n\' rnli'liart rmins the celllle. the 
(iTlier hall' III' dianietel heinu- ,ui\en tn the 
fill lit lit' <\ e ; 1 he |Miilit 1 ( I nf slli lllider nil hack 

sliniild lie placeil at :! nil centre line, and 1 at 

]liiillt III' hack tn (l;. Ill where it tniiclie- nll 

tii|i line, and a|i|il\ hlade ineasnie I'mni I'lniit 
of s\ e. with 11" inch.'s added, tn t Ir- ren-iilar 
luer coat iiiea^iire nainelv, 17 fu inside 
roaT. 'f e.xtra for over cn.-it, and there heinii' 
1 inch added Inwer mi hack in tlii> case, and 
■V incli added |n width nl' hack inme than 
o\er cnats. and aiiimintiiii:' tn !'.»[. we make 
the hlade measure lit. ilimw iiiii' ntt' the { iiiidi 
in the 1 J, inches added in this cnat. the 
niea>iiie lieiiiL;" aii|ilieii nil tile liia^ : fill' front 
of lireast .'. Iireast with ', of inch shmild lie 
ii-i\'en. and from -) to 4,1 inches for hqipel. 
then mark down dotted line mi the square, 
and sqiiarein the hottoni to len;j,l h of hack.add 
;S inches in front and ."i.' heliind, and form fm-e- 
])art as model : the \\idtlis may lie inciea>ed 



at side to I he demands of the ciislmner and [ 
the re(|uii emeiits of fashion. Imt when an 
additional w idtli is L:i\ en I he Ichl;! h of lioliom 
in frmii should he leiii;lhened in iiro)i<ii lion. 
Tliis i;ariiieiil can he drafted li\ the scale, 
corresjiondinu' with the hie.-i^t measure, as 

1 1 \t ra al h iw a iice^ are lii \ en in the niini hers 

on the diauram. and the niea^nre is the same 
as llial we L;'a\e for frock cnat. Fiix. - is the I 

I'llllar. The sleeve of llli>Coat i^ to he found 

ill lilate le, tii;. -k 

Mow to draft Spanish mantle or circular 
cloak : Draw str;iii;hl line from 40 at top to 
:!S.', at liottmii. then mark ii]i fioni 4(i to l.l, 
the leiit:th i>\' \iiiir cinak liehind, then mark 
up 1 '. inches tn (t, and sipiare t he lii, acinss 
tn 411. then divide \niir neck measure in i 

two jiart-. we will suppose it to |ia\e lieell I 

S inclie- then mark 4. or .' neck in>ide frmii 
1 .',. and si)iiare it up to d I A inches, and mark 
from (I down 4 inches or h neck measure, 
and <w eep hack neck fri nn N. to t he J niict imi 
of dotted lino from 4 at i'roni. and the 
halance of inM-k h\ (• to 4. then mark leiii;th 
of front from 4 to :iS,l. the same iiuiiiherof 
inches, or 1 .1 shorter than liehind, and the 
<i(h' from neck to 4 1.1 should lie ! .1 inches 
Immeiihan heliind to i;i\c leiti;Ili o\ er the 
shoulder, and t hen sw eep the I e 111: til of cloak 
all rmiiid hy point of neck nji I'loin 4. from 
4(1 to :!S.\ li_\ A\L For markiiiLi- tiie leiiti-tli 
of capes liehind. mark from \i IS, '2'2, "JO, oi- 
4 inches ajiait, and at side ]'Jh. '>:\h. '27.1. and 
at front Hfl. '-Mi. -Mi. tliii> pre^^ervinti- the 
same diH'ereiice as in the leiiLith of cloak ; 

sweep fr IS. -i-J. •.'(') to ifl.L -J-.'.L -27.1 hy the 

same point as that of cloak, and from llH, 2'{.l, 
■21!. to ]*>',. 'i(».l. •.>4.l by -i : the distances of 
hottom of caiies from front les]iecti\ely. are 
ashillows 2 iiiclii- at 24A. Ijat^oi. liat 
ICi.l : the collar lii;'. '2 in |ilate }'.',. is suited 
to tins cloak. The points of this duals may 
he all drafted with the scale correspoiidinii- 
w 'ill the hreast measiii'e. 



24 



DESCIMITION OF PLATE 1.]. 



Ildw 1(1 (lialt li:ilf ciniilar rloak : Diaw Draw liark line IVmii 4 to -I'J and siinarc in 

line IVoni s (III tii]i t(i 4"i. mark (lnwii Irdiii .^^ t(.)]i iVoiii 4 to -i'-lh, tVoni (> to 4 is lialt' tlu^ 

til o N iiiclics (ir tlic w idtli of neck. st]iiarc in neck measure, scjiiare inside from () HA inclies, 

t()]i or IVoiil of cloalv. For tal\iiiLi' the lisli mailv. I incli up and s\vee]( tiie neck from (i, 

out of iieci\ s(]uare inside from o to :>A and 1. 2 by 4, strai.uliten tlie curve i inch down 

raise ii|i I imdi. same as 1)acl\ of (ireel\ sack. at front, tlieii measure the h'li.nth of ue(d\ 

then (Iraw line of shoiilih-r to Ixiltom at 44 .u'orge. \vhi(di should be '2 oi' 2h in(dies more 

b\ 4. or .' neck measure u]i from ••. then tluin tigiit measure oi' \wrk, -whicdi would be 

mark 4 inches down on front and |o. draw HI or loA. and usually divides the ne(d\ 

line from 4 in front by .'lA to (i inches down e(|uall_\" in three parts, or tliree (piarter 

on shoulder, and then form curve of shouldei- circular, and di'aw front line from 4 liy -A- to 
from (i to S. swce]! friiiit of neck from ."i.l to , 4()A, cuive front as model, sweep from 42 to 
10 by 4 in front, and bottom from 42 to 44 \ 48t] by 1. and froiti 4HtI to 48^ by 4, and from 

1)\- 4 on t()]i. and from 44 to 41 by ."lA. then 4:]A to 41 l)y 2; tlie collar tij;'. 2 is adapted 

add I inch for sle]i in front, as rejireseiited to eithei' of these cloaks. Fiy'. H is tlie sleeve 

b\(lolled line. The scah' can also be used of (ireek sa(d\ in phite 12; tliis sleeve is 

for this (doak. drafted in tlie way \\e ha\t' hitheito de- 

llow to draft three ()uarteT circular, lii;-. 4 : sciibed. 



I'hi/r /// 



01 



» -t 




42 



nrrii f'l run '/ '/ In 'I ^ ^i\ ' '-' 



HALF CIRCULAR CLOAK 



/•»/ / 





THREE QUARTER CIRCLE CLOAK 



I'ldlr /', 




25 



DKSClfirTION OF I'l.ATK 14. 



I^'iu's. 1, ■_'. :i. 4, .', an- tlir (liaaTaius nf a 
(>;nricls. or lii\rnii'ss cajn'. ami '!■< Iai<l down 
to 111' (I la I'tcd li\ I III' si-alr : ami in rasf somr 
of oiii' ii'ailci's iiia\ not know how to iisr llir 
srali'. wi' will si'liTl srali' IS. ami jnori'i'il to 
(lial'l tins uariui'iit. ilow to dral't liark. tiu 
1 : (haw back liiir IVoni <i to 4"ij. stiiiaic in 
to]), mark down tVoiii ii liy tlii'sralr. '..'<. I(t. 
41. 4'i.l. S([uart' tlii'sc lini'> anoss. nuirk on Top 
linr ;!. si'cond linr '.)\. third lim' \'2\. liottom 
18. tlraw dotted lim'tVoni I2{ to IS. ami t'onn 
top of bacl'^ from ' to :i. shouhh-r from l> to 
itj. and si(h' hy 121 to Is, l.ottoin from 42^ 
to IS. How to draft fori'pai-l. WiX S: dra\\ 
constrnction lim' from n to 4:!',, mark down 
from 0. 1^-. -ii (Vi. 7. I I. -Ml 4 1 ',. 4:V.. sipiarr 
these lines across, mark inside, on top line. 
■i-k secmid line i:!'. third line i:t,'. inside, and 
•i ontside. foni-th line l."i, tilth line SI. 141. 
sixth line ,s:. Ml inside, and ■>[ ontsiih'. 

seventh line is depth of porkel w el I . eiii h t h 

line -J-J'j inside, and •.", oiiiside. diaw lines 
from 4', to i:;,'. and from l."i to 22'. draw the 
slioi't lines from 1:1', lo i:!;. ami from 14, to 

1." I es)ieeli\ el \ . and cM r\ e -lion h ler- [ loi nt ( Ml t 

to Ki j. I hen mark s \ e li\ ]:','■;. S! in front and 
Si al liottom. lo N| at side, mark neck ii'ori;c 
from 4\ liy 2j to 2. ami front and liottom as 
imi(h'l. IIii\\ lo draft eapi'liii'4; draw eon 
sliiiction line IVom ii lo :i'J, s(piare in top. 
mark down IVom Hal lop 2^. 2."). :!2. xpiare 
lliesi' lines across, niaik inside al to]i 4:',. 
second line II. :!."■> inside, and I] outside, 
third line 2.'il inside, and 1 ,■ outside, mark 



lip iVom 11 2 inches, and hnni tlie slionlder 
from 4^. to 2 liy foivpart. then draw strai.u'ht 
line from 2 to 1,1. sweeji from 82 to 2.")4 by Uhe 
distance from n to 41. and frmn 2ri,l to 1,1 by 
4.^. and form froni as ino(h'l. How to di-aft 
sh'i'M' lio- :!; draw con>trnftion line from 
to 27^1. sipiaic in toji. maik down from (•, 1^. 
'k 14. 2(i, 271. sc|nare these lilies across, mark 
on top line ."i, \i)'}. second line In. ||. fourth 
line Ii. 12. Ixitloin 7. draw line from jn-j' to 
n, and from I 1 to 7. and form the ontsi<h' of 
slevee by 11, 12. 7. and foivann by ."i. ]. 2(i. 
liottom from 2ri to 7. sleeve head by 11. ."i at 
tii)i to ."i at forearm, and niKlerside as model, 
the collar is drafted in the same way. and a 
laiiier or smaller scale i;'i\es a lar.uer or 
smaller pattern, the dotted line riiiiiiiiiii- nj) 
from front of sye on slionlder. and also from 
bottom of sye To side, is iiidicaTiiii;- a (.Tarrick 

withonl s|ee\e : these ]ioints need not be 

added (111 in such case. How tojoiii it touclher: 
the ]i( lint i:!] and bij slioiild be Joined To The 
piiiiiT 141 and l."i. and then the sleeve shonld 
be |illl in. then the cape, liii' 4. shonld be 
basted on aloiiu' the neck u-orii'e and down 
the side, and then the back, fin' 1. shonld be 
joined lo tliat of forepart :> on back to point 

4', on shoulder, sewilli:' the three ]iieces to- 
Li'el her as far down 1 he side as 1 he cajie i;-oes, 
and the liack and forepart to the bottom, tlie 
step of cajie is cnt j incli narrower than fore- 
part, and w'li'ii ihej-eisa fly jiut in front, it 
should be in the caiie. 



26 



DESCRIPTION OF PLATE 15. 



Fins 1. 'i. <i, 8 ail' the (liaurains ni' a Ixty's 
sack f'Dat totlii- toUowiiiti- uicasun" : iliamctci' 
longwise 4,'>, ci'osswisc '■'>. slioiildcr iiicasiirc 
loA, blade 14f, svc iiicasuic '.)h dcptli ofsyi' 
(111 bai'k 7 iiiclii's, natural waisi 141. full 
Iciiii'tli 17, Icii^ii'tli of back 2iS. li'iiiitli (ifsl<"(n-e 
torlbow 17.1, full Iciiii'tli 27',. width at clbdw 
8, slt'cNc liaud Ti. breast b'l. waist 14. For 
iiistruetioiis liiiw to draft this ^a(•k. we would 
refel- Ilie leadiT to iustruclioiis <in iueii"s 
sa(dvs, ]ia,ne 14, \\ lieii' r\iruliiu,ii- a|>])ei-tain- 
iiig to business saeks is exjilaiued. Fii:' ti is ;i 
dia.u'i'aui repi-eseutiuu low roll, aud liow to 
]»lare the collnr on in order lo ]iiddue'> ir. 
Fii;- 8 is the slee\c. and is drafted in the wav 
I ha\'e liitiit^rto described. Figs H. 4. 7. aie 
the diauranis of sack |ackel, to the followini;' 
nii'asnre: diaineiei- leUL^lhwise 4[, crosswise 
;>, shoulder niea>nre '.I',, l>ia(h' i:!',. sve nieas- 
ui'e S^, de]ilh of s\ e on liacis (i.j, natural 
waist i:!, full ler; 'h IS. tin length of sleeve 
to i-Ukiw is ICil. lull lenulh •.'<;. widih of 
elbo\\ 7', slei>\i' !i:incl 41. breast llfl. waisI 
i:i; tile li;i.'k. iig :!. is diafled in tliesann' 
\\a_\ as sack co;it until \ on conie lu'low n;i- 
tural waist, w hen the back sliould lie sjirinig; 
out to ' inch onlside at hottoui. and tlie side 
seam is hollowed I inch to ioiin it sliiihtlx lo 
till- sha]ie of liod\ , ;ind the botloiu is formed 
with a u'cntle i-ui\e. Diagiam tig 7 re]ire- 
Sents two dittereni si vies o!' forejiart, ihe one 
a cutaway jacket, and the other to Imttoii to 
near the bottom : this jai-ket is drafted in the 
same way as sa<'k. the leiigtii to bottom 
of S_V e tVom O is the shoul(h'l- measuie. top of 
l>ack included, with V incli added for seams, 
and ihe forming of shoulder b_\ la\ing ihe 
line ih'jitli of shoulder of back on centre line, 
whi(di is half the diameter crossw ise. See 1 \. 
and llien ap]il_\ ing the bh-nh- measure ovei- 
shoulder lo bottom of sye on back, aiidtbnn 
your shoi.lder by back and roniid it off ^} 
iuch iroiu centie line to the jioint : the way 
!o lind front of sye is Ihe same as sacl\, and 



should he lai.sed I graduated iiicli. See 
si(h'])oi]it. Lay the back at 6:^-, tomdiing at 8, 
Ixittoni of sye, then ap]ily s^e' measure 
across from (ii on ba(dv to 6j, and 'd iindies to 
the fiont of sye, making 9^ iiiclies to front of 
sye. or I inch more than sye measure for 
making up, and the half iiudi is added to the 
width of back: the sidt^seani at bottom is 
sprung 1 I inches to give rase over the hi]i 
bones, and foi'in it to the sha}ie under aim, 
the cutaway sliould have the ])ockets jdaced 
diagonally with a small welt, and the otln^' 
should have a small tia]i below natural waist, 
with the (^ndsof bottom slightly roniuh'd oft"; 
for the drafting of slee\e, we refer to frock- 
coat sleeve. See jilate 'A. lig H. ]iage 10. A 
small collar shajied similar to fig (i, the 
staiid-M|i being sti-iiiglit, and should roll the 
bi( .-ist \ eiy short. Figs o, 7. 0, are the dia- 
grams of a cadel jacket to the same measure 
as sack jacket we have just been describing ; 
lint lliis Jacket is designeil t<i tit close at the 
waist. We. theicfore. nse the elli}itic meas- 
ure. \s liicli is lo inches, and is applied to 
bring the sides<'am in at natural waist, ihe .^ 
incli extra i<ir making u]i is given in the dia- 
meter crosswise in this jacket to Hatjiointof 
sideseam. there b<'ing a seam down under 
aiiii. in fiont of breast there shonld be ^ in(di 
added more than half breast measur(>; and 
in cases where iliey are well wadded and 
worked in military form, tliev shonld have 
I imdi. Tliis jacket shonld either have stand- 
ing collarsor a collar like tig 7, jilate 16, to 
lit on the shonldei- in concave form, the l>ack, 
sidebody, and fore]iart should be well sprung 
below natural waist, and the linings shonld 
be ]int in long and full so as not to c(nitract 
it ill any ]iaiticnlar, and thus enabh^ it to 
confoi-ni to the sluqie of the body. 

Figs 8. 10. and 11 are the diagrams (^f a 
hoy's walking coat, and is drafted tti the 
following measure: diameter lengthwise 4|. 
crosswise 'M, shoulder HH inidies, lilade 14f, 



I'la/r /; 




Plate 14. 



27 



elliptic 1(1. (l<'i>tli of svf on htuk 7. natiuiil 
waist 14A, full Iciijitti IDj, bottom of skiiT -38. 
slct'v«' 17.1 to rlbow. full l.-ujii-tli 27L width at 
elbow 8i, sleevi' hand ."), bivast l.'). waist 14. 
the back, ti<i' K), is cut loni;,' ;il waist and 
short in the skirt, the width at natural waist 
is :? inches, and the back is wi'll cuivcd below 
the waist; there is \ of inch added to width 
of back at ])itch. Kiu,- 1 I is the forepart, and 
is drafted in the same way as ti^' 7. plate 7, 
(for paiticulars see ]iaj;'e If)), wirhtiie follow- 
ini!; exceptions ; the ])oint of sidebody is 
I'aised f of yraduated incli at )i<iint of side- 
body, same as Hu- 7. but is not raised tin' 
half inch underarm : it isi;l\en the in't dia- 



meter crosswise tVom front of sye to 1^ or ii\ 
inches, on the })rincii>le that when the side- 
body and forepart is joined where the fish is 
taken (Mit, the point of sidehody will be 
br(uii;'lit to its natural ])oint to the line helow, 
and thiown out t inch, so that we don"! add 
an \t I liny for nuikini;' u]i in coats of this kind, 
the shoiddei- and front of bieasi is formed in 
the same wa,\' as fi.a- 7, and in tht^ a])])lication 
of elliptic measure, ihesanie princi])le is jin- 
served. Fiy' (> rejiresents the i-oll of this 
breast, and thi' uuiiinei- of cutting- the collai-. 
but can lie niaile shortei' by drop])iiii;- the 
crease 111' collar to ))oint of slioidder. 



28 



DESCiJlFTlON OF PLATE lO. 



Figs 1, 2. '.'> iiiv the <lia<iraiiis (it'll little cut- 
away Jacket; and as all tlie diamanis in 
this plate are drafted in tiie same way In the 
scale ('(irrespoiiding with the hi-east nieasui-e. 
we will now show the manner of ilialting 
this diagram. How to diaft lig 1 : draw con- 
struction line from n to 21^, scpiare in to]i. 
mark down fi-om o :U, (if. 84. 2(lJ, 21^. sipiare 
these lines acioss. mark on to]) line 2j, and 
raise up >. inch for spiing. mark outside on 
point of shoulder D:^. ])itcli s,l. liotTom of sye 
!)i, hottom 101. draw line of shouldei- from 
itoitj, side from It-Holo], foini hack sye from 
!)J- by 8A to '.».l, toji from (i to 4. hottom from 
2U to lo}. H(.w to diaft forei)a]t. tig 2: 
draw constiuction line from (i to 21|. sipuire 
in to]), then maik down from Hjr, 4i, 9, S»f, 
17. 2(»^, 21|. square these lines across, mark 
on top HJ, ()|, line of shoulder 1 I, inside foi- 
l)oint of side .] inch, hottom of sye :!f. 12. 
natural waist ll|. hottom 7 1. maik shouldei- 
from 6| to 4|. an.i sye from 4.1 toiu'liing line 
ill front by ;>v to half inch, and side from '^ to 

2I5, and f(U-m front and bottom fi-om II \)y 
12, 1]J, 7{, to2i;. How to draft sh^^ve. fig 
3: draw construction line from to 21. 
sc[uare in toji, mark (1o\mi from ,-. :!.i, |ii,^. 
20. 21. s(iuare these lines acioss. mark in- 
side at top 4. 7,L second line r,\, elbow !». 
bottom (i aiut foini slee\c In tliosi' numheis. 
This jacket should he trimmed aiiuind the 
neck (which has no collai'), fi-oni and bottom 
with two low s of naiiow braid, same distance 
ai)art as that on cutf. the first low l ,,|- j,,,,], 
from the edge, and i inch a]>arT. the little flap 
should 1)1' finished in the same manner, the 
entrance to which is at top. Fig S is the 
breeches for this little suit. Fig 17 is the waist 
band: they are plaited in at toji. and tiiis 
band is sewi'd on with llii' ])oinr in centre 
with tiller buttons sewed on as represented, 
and two buttons and holes at side, the same 
braiding icpreseiited on Jacket may be car- 
rit d (low 11 the side and boltom of breeches. 



Figs 18 and lii are the diagrams of a h'tle 
vest attached to and c(unpletes the suit. In 
the making of this little vest, in Joining side- 
seam the points Oand iKi should be Joined to- 
gether down to jo ami 17. where it will be 
observed there is a little ste]i ill the f(ire])art, 
the long line represented fr(mi io to 17-.V on 
back is tile sliajie of a strap, sewed on t() 
back, at side, and fastt-ned to the lining of 
forejiart underneatli at top of stra]!. and the 
front of the little jiaiits is buttoned on to it, 
and the bottom ]iart of vest, from lA down 
wards, falls over it. Figs 4. .">. 7. 10. I(>. are 
the diagrams of a Sheridan blouse, tig 4 is 
the back and ."> the forepart, the sideseam is 
Joined together from 9J to iU respectively, to 
18 and 18^, where there is a little jilait tbrnied 
to bott(nii of skirt, the band, tig 10. runs 
across the back at waist, and is fastened on 
at io])of])hiit with a button at the end. Fig- 
Hi is the sleeve, and lias 4 buttons at hack 
arm. and a cutf represented In two rows of 
braid, whicli should be carried all loiiiid the 
<'tUj:r of blouse. Fig 7 is tile collar, and is 
designed to lit around the shoulders in con- 
cave form. This Jacket is drafted in the way 
we have described. Figs (i. 7. It, Ki, 20. are 
the diagrams of diagonal blouse ; fig 15 is the 
liack. and i> drafted inthe usual way. figHis 
the forejiart. and should be drafted as laid 
(low 11 in diagram, the construction line in 
centre, the jioiiits outside, not only indicat- 
ing the blouse, but also the diagonal line 
where it Joins ; after the foi-e]iart is drafted 
and the diagonal o]ieiiiiig marked, the jiat- 
tern should be cut around the diagonal line, 
and enough of material added to the nnder- 
part to run from 2,' on point of shoulder in a 
straight direction to lap about 2 inches at 
i:>'. at bottom, the u]i]ier jiart of shoulder is 
formed with three points, where it la]is un- 
derside, and is fastened on slKUilder with 
three buttons and holes, and down the front 
with 12. Fig b! is the sleeve, and fig 20 is 



' lllldl (MIS 



i'/,t/r //y 




Tl.ATK Hi. 



•J'.) 



tlit>1)elr wliicli is just half till- si/>". ami sliould 
be fastened around tin- middle at waist. Ki,n' 
7 is rlie collar, and is desii;iied to lit close 
around the shouldei-. This blouse should 
be tiiniuied all aiound with tuo rows of 
bi'aid H inclies fi'oiu the ed<i(^ and A inch 
a])ai-t, intej-lined with one row of tra<'ino- 
bi-aid. 

Figs II. 12. 15, 20. 21 are the diagrams of 
a (Taril)aldi or short })louse. Tliis })louse is 
drafted in tlie same way as tlie otliiT, the 
ojx'ning being on the other side, and is indi- 
cated by tlie numbers on the outside : from 
construction line, fig 12. is the bai'k and 15 



tlie fore]iart. II the sleeve. 21 the collar, the 

belt, 2<), is designed foi' either the diagonal 
or this blousi". the tiimmiug is represented 
on bieast and sli'e\e. and sliouhl be the same 
around the bottom. 

Fig 14 is the diagram of a pair of Zouave 
bieeches. aiid is drafted from the centre in the 
usual way, the construction line l)eing in the 
centre. The hing belt represented inside 
is designi'd Ibi- the bottom, which should 
fasten with a buckle at the end, the belt, lig 
17, is adapted to these breeches, which are 
suited to either the above blouses, but the 
trimming should correspond. 



30 



DESCRIPTION OF PLATE 17. 



Military. 



Fi-s I. 'i. o. 4. wirli 1 on jilaii' K^ mvc not 
lia\iii,i;' room for it on tliis ])latiM an' tln' dia- 
o'l-aiiis ofa military cloak (H' coat. II should 
T>c of dark Miic cloth, and close by means 
of foui- fj-oy- Inittons of lilack silk, and also 
4 loo] IS of hlack silk coid down the fiont. as 
icjircsmtcd on dia^iain. and at llic throat 
1)\ a lonii' loop (I E.vhilh'. without tassd or 
pliiit. on the left side, and a lilack silk froii- 
button on the liulit : the coi-d for the loo]is 
should be tifteeii liundredths of an inch in 
diametei-. the back is without seam. Imt is 
cut up from l.'i t<i 17 inches, in jirojiortion to 
the len,iith. and a fl,\ sel in with 7 buttons 
and holes : collai- of the >anie color and ma- 
terial as t lie coat, the ediii's should be sliii'litlv 
rounded otf. and sliould be made to eithei- 
stand or fall, and when standini:' to be about 
T) inches wide, sleeve loose, of a siliiile ]»iece. 
and round at thelxittoni witlmut cuffor vent : 
the lininu's should be of woolen, there slioidd 
be a lilack silk braid about half inch wide 
sewed llaton the edyes.and alsothe pockets, 
and around <'acli fr<ii:' button on the breast a 
knot two and one (piartei- in(dies in dia- 
meter of black silk cor(L se\ en liundredths 
of an inch in diameter, arranged in accord- 
ance with the draw ing <>ii dia,<;ram. The cape 
is of the same color and material, and can Ix^ 
removed al the ple;isu|-e of the wearer, and 
should reach to the liottom of slee\e when 
the arm is exti'uded : i he length of the cloak 
shoidd be from (i to S inches below the knee, 
or in pi-oportion to hein-hf. to indicate the 

l-aid\ ; there will l)e on bdth sleeves. Ileal- \\\i' 

lower edi;e. a knot of tlal black silk braid, 
imt exceeding'^ of an inch in width, arranged 
to correspond with the diawing. and com- 
])osed as follows : 

!<'or a (Teiieral— oftive braids, double knot. 

I'\ir a Colonel — oftive braids, single knot. 

l*'or a Lieuteiiant-Cohinel — of four braids. 
single knot. 

h'or a .Ma/|or —of three braids, single knot. 



For a ('a]itain (if two braiiU, single kuot. 

Foi- a First Lieutenant — of one braid, single 
knot. 

F<ir a Second Lieutenant and ISrevet Se- 
cond Lieutenant a plain slee\e. witlidut 
knot oi' ornament. 

This I'loak is drafted in the usual way 
from the line of construction by the numbers 
on the diagram coi-respoiniing with those of 
the scale. W'e will now finish military cloak 
by showing how to dialt ca]ie in jilate 18: 
La_\ baid\ and I'orejiart in a J<iining jiosition 
at shoulder, then mark around the ne(d< and 
down the baidv the length you wish to cut 
the cape, say :>•') inches; then give it the same 
sha]ie as front of forepart: it should be a 
little fuller, it Inning to lit over the cloak : 
carrv out shoulder line to the bottom of 
cape, gi\e it U more o\er shoulder tiian be- 
hind, and I.V less in front than l>eliind. and 
swee]) the bottom fiom ^'^'1 to 14 by 4.J, and 
from 14 to 411.^ l>y 4^1, and from 4()t} to HS.i liy 
-\ : this ca])e can be also <li-afted Ity the scah\ 
The ornament <in slee\e. with three In-aids, 
should be cariied along the bottom of under- 
side. 

Figs. .'i. Ci. 7. and "J. H. and :!A, jilate IS, are 
the diagrams of single ami double breasted 
military coat, and are drafted by the rule t<i 
the following measure : diameter lengthwise 
Ay. crosswise 4. shoulder Vl. blade, 17. sye 
IItV, elli]itic Kvl, (h'ptli of sye <in back 8:|-, 
natural waist I7;l, full length li). to bottom 
of skirt :'0. breast 18, waist Hi, collar 8. 
These <'oats are drafted the same as dress 
frock, with the following exception: the 
length of Ill-east slundd lie taken from the 
nape <if neck, and when the thumb is on the 
nieasui-e at front of waist, the measure should 
be carried up to the extreme jioint of neck 
bone, and in the apjilication of this measure, 
-\ incli more should be added for the drawing 
inof front. In single breast there should be 
1 int-li added to front, and should be fulled 



I'hih /7 




ri> 



Id -J 




UiJ lo* 




rialtc /o' 




oil. ;ui(l tiK'iii.iis 1\i'pt titilif ;ni(l well waddt'd. 
wliicli will rcciniri' the extra indi. Tlu'si' 
coals arc addjilcil in most all cases of mili- 
tary or iia\y, the ditlcrcncc coiisistiiii;- cliict1_\' 
of trimminu'. 'I'lic skirts of niilitaiy coats 
slioidd lia\(' more di-apci y than citizens', and 
therefore hollowed a little more at waist, and 
gi\eii a little more s])iinii' 1)chind. 

Fi.U. o.l is the lappell suited to donMe 
breast. The re^'uhitions are as I'ollows : all 
otticei-s shall wear a fiock coal of dark blue 
cloth, the skirt to extend tVoni -i to | of the 
distance iVom the to]i of hi]i to the liend of 
knee, sin,i;le hreasted for cajitains and lieu- 
tenants, doable Ill-east ed foi' all other grades ; 
foi' a majoi-ii-eneial two rows of hnttons on 
the breast. '.> in (^ach row, jihiced by threes, 
the distance l)etween each row o-i inclies at 
to]) and :>A inches at bottom, stand-np collai' 
to rise no higher than to ])einiit the chin to 
tni-n freely over it, to hook in front at tln' 
bottom, and to slo])e thence ii]) and liack- 
ward at an angle of 8U degrees on each si(U% 
making the total opeiung in front ati angle 
of (i() degl-ees, cntfs 2,1 inches deep, to go 
around the slee\es parallel with the lower 
edge, and to button with tliri'e small buttons 
at the underside : pockets in the plaits of the 
skirts, with buttons at the hips, and one at 
the end of each ]iocket, making 4 buttons on 
the liack and skirt of the coat : the hip but- 
tons should i-ange with the lowest Ijutfou on 
breast: collar and cuffs to Ik- of dark l>lue 
\el\et, and the liniui: black. For a l)riL;a 



diei-geneial sjime as tor a major-general, ex- 
cepting that there will be only S luittons on 
each io\v on l)reast, placed in jiaiis. I'^or a 
colonel the same as for a major-general, ex- 
cejiting that there will be only 7 buttons on 
each row on the breast. ])laced at e(]ual dis- 
tances: collarand cutfsof the same material as 
the coat. For a lieutenant-colonel same as for 
a coloni'l : fora major same as tor a colonel : 
for a captain tln^ same as for colonel, except- 
ing that there will he only one row of.) but- 
tons on the bicast, ])laced at equal distances 
a](art : for a lirst lieutenant same as for a 
cajitain : Ibr a second lieutenant same as for 
a cajitain : for a brevet second lieutenant 
same as for a cajitaiu. 

Military Trousers. 

The uniform trouseivs for both otticers and 
I'nlisted men will }h' of clotli throughout the 
year made moderately loose, and to s})read 
well over the l)oot, of sky-hliie mixture Ibr 
icginieiilal otlicers and eidisted nu'ii, an<l of 
dark blue cloth for all othei- otlicers rein- 
forced for all enlisted mounted men : |'(m- 
general otlicers (ilaiu without stri})e, welt or 
cord down the outer seam ; for officers of the 
gi'iieral staff and stalf corps, with a bidf welt 
ojie-eighth of an inch in diameter let ititotlie 
sideseain : ibr regimental otlicers. with a welt 
sewed into thesides(^a.ni one-eighth of an inch 
in diameter, of the following colors -for artil- 
lery, scat let: infantry, dark blue : ritiemeii, 
medium or emerald green ; dragoons, oi-ange. 



32 



DESCIJII'TION OF I'LATE 19. 



V\'j:^. I. 2, ;!. -1 .-Hi' dia.uiaiiisof tlirci' ditfi'i-- 
eut st\'lr8 of vests ti) tile same l)ai'k. \Vc 
will illustratr tlic iiiodi^ of drafting liy fiti's ] 
and 4: the ineasiii-es sliould l)e taken for 
leiiiitli of vest fvoui sockt't l)one lieliind down 
to tiie length tliat tlie vest should he opened, 
then the full lenii'tli of front, next hreast and 
waist ineasnie. We will sn]>)iose the follow- 
ing nieasnre : length of open K! inches, fidl 
length 2r) inclies. hreast 18, waist Hi. Diaw 
fonstrnctioii line fi-oni o to 22, squai-e in top, 
niai'k along to]^ .' breast nieasui-e. wliicli is 9 
iiiclies, then (li\i(h' that in ;> parts, or l-6th 
and i respectively, diaw line fioiu 1) at top to 
'.) at bottom on tlie s(piar<'. then mark down 
tVom (» H inches or I - I2tli breast measure, and 
t(_) (5 one third, and '.» one-iialf. and to IT.l the 
length of natural waist, and w lien you have not 
got till' natui-al wai>t, a])]il,\ half the breast 
lesstt inch, then a]i]ily your lueasuri' lengtli of 
\est from (i or ])oint of shoulder at top: sup- 
])osing width oi' to]iof back :! inchesor l-(')tli. 
Ia\ tlie:i ou (i and apply length of l)reast 
down to 11 at bottou:. witli ^ of inch added 
for making 111 >. then septa re those lines across: 
then mark ill from natural waist I iin-h. a]i- 
].ly hal f _\ our waist measure from said inch 
to iVoiil. with 1.^ inches added, i incli for 
niaking ii]i. and A inch for \ to Krl. nuirk 2 
inches in front of 1 he line t liat runs from '.) to '.) 
along from bottom ofsyei see No. I 1 on tig. 2(1 ). 
draAv line of shoulder Irom t; to I .^. t hen a])ply 
y(Mir measure down to ihe length of opening 
on breast, say 17. then dvAw _\oiir front by 
the 2 \ on lia\e iwi;il,ljslied liy I \ to '.» at bot- 
tom, then mark up from 22:! inches, or 1-Oth. 
and draw bottom of \ est from '•! to 111. form 
your sideseani from 1» by I at natiiial waist; 
let it be well spiling lieliiw ualiiial waist, as 
model, mark the width of to]i of siioiddej- 
about ti\e iiii-|ie>. ami foiin \cmr s_\('. as 
model : draw doited line from :! at top to ] !■ 
at front of breast. oi- the length of opening, 
according to measure, and form the neck 



gorge, as mod''!, and take out v as rejue- 
seiited on foi'ejiart. As this vest is designed 
to o}»en well on tlie lireast, we cut th(> sewing 
to ]>art of collar, or stand uji. lathei- hollow- 
ing, and the sewing, too, slionld be kept a 
little tight along towards the fiont. so that 
when the V4'st is tinislied. tin' crease will be 
liollow, something resembling the neck gorge. 
Tliese vests can be drafted as wt-ll by the 
scale as In' divisions of the breast measure ; 
bnt at the waist, tlie real nteasure shouhl be 
a])plied. so as to give it sutficieiit width at 
tliis part, no matter liow small tlie waist 
measure may be. the front of vest should 
never be l)ronght inside of the point U at 
bottom. l)ut the extra material should be 
taken out as v ; this is tVuind necessary to 
I)i'event tlie vest raising u]i in front. In cases 
when the scale is used for cutting a garment 
for a tall and slim man, a scale a size larger 
should be used for the lengths than ibi- the 
widths, and if (b'afted by divisions, the bot- 
tom of sye and natural waist should be low- 
ered in proiiortion to the length. Fig 2. is 
clerical oi- English style of vest, and is dratted 
in the same manner as lig. 1. with the follow- 
ing exception: that 3 graduated inches, or 
l-(ith, is marked down irom o id inrate 
tlie front of neck gorge, and there is J inch 
added in front of line at neck to In, ami 2 
inches at front of lu-east to 11. .\t this point 
we\aryfi-om Jjto2j in proportion to the 
chest of customer : the collar should be cu 
to tit the liorof, according to model. 

Fig. :i is a vest of the straight form without 
collar, and is usually called the Fren<di style 
of vest. 'I'he reader will at a glance see the 
points of this \-est. There is a little collar 
inserted behind, lepresented by the long 
S(juare jiii ce. which is designed to gi\'e sjuing 
to this ])art of the neck gorge : the ]ioints of 
front of breast are indicated by the numbejs 
on the diagram. How to draft back, tig 4 : 
draw construction line from to 21. square 



riatr /V 



rz\ 




Plate 19.] 



33 



ill to]) : mark (1(a\ii IVdiii n Id.l iiicln's. wiiicli 
sliDiild lii' fVoiii 1 to lA iiH-lii's iiioii' tliiiii 
IVoiii (1 to '.I al l>oitoin of SVC on forepart, oin' 
inch for tile fail' iiroiiortioncd. and one and 
a half for till' stoo]iiim': mark on top :! inches 
or ]-()th for widtli of toji of hack, and tlieii 9 
or iialf-l)i'east, then draw line from H to bot- 
tom on ihe s(piaie. mark <lo\\n said line 4 
imdies or ', Ineasl measure, less half inch; 
tiiis should lie raised u]i or down in )>ropor- 
tioii to hiii'ii or low slioiildeis, tlieii maik in- 
side at bottom of s\e 1 incli. for mai\in,n- U]i 
to 10, and ,ni\e I inch al boil(nu oxer half 
waist, mark h'liiith of side of back by that 
of forepart, raise sjiriiig of t()}i ^ tVoiii :!, 
and form ba(d\ as imnle). Kiu. o is the 
iliagram of (huible bri'asted \est. and is 
drafted in the same way. witii the follow- 
ing exce])tioiis : the jioint of neck gorge in 
front is established by placing tlii' line o 
inches or l-fith from top. tlie front of breast 
is placed at I imdi and I i; res])ecti\-eiy, but 
may be dimiiiisiied in pro])oition to tiie size 
of chest, the width of lapell is jilaced at 'A to 
iH and T) respecti\ely, and '2 iiudies should 
be added for widtii of lajiell at bottom, and 
the tVont of \ est formed by tiiose points. Fig. 
II is tli<' collar, and is drafted by tJie scale, 
fig. I! is a (h)uble-breasted vest of the siiaw] 
form. The <iiagram indicates tjie points of 
ditferi'iice from the single breast : in front of 
breast tile single breast is indicated by a 
doIt<Ml line mai'ked Ij or | less than single. 



and If is added at top for the double breast. 
making in all '■>},. and at liottom 1 inch for 
single bivast and I .\ adih^d for the double, 
and the front of breast is formed in accord- 
ance v\ilh these points : the collar slmuld be 
fitted to the neck as represented. 

I'^igs. 7 and 1".' are the diagrams of a cor- 
pnleiil man's vest, and isdrafted in tlie same 
way as hg. 1. only the roll of breast being 
mu(di higher. .\t the natural waist. where it is 
marked I:] imdies into sideseam, this point 
in vests should be maiki'd I graduated imdi 
in wliicii it would aiiuuiiit to nearly \^ inches. 
as marked in thisvest, and tlie waist measure 
should be aiijilied from sideseam tol4^, with 
1 iiudi added, there being no \' required in 
such vests, no allowance is made for it : the 
front ol' breast on line at bottom of s_ve is 
jilaced at o, whi<di would be alioiit 2i- where 
the roll of Tireast commences, oi- s^ of breast, 
ami tile front of breast is formed in accord- 
aiK'e witli these jmints. The back, tig. 12, is 
drafted in the same way as tig. 4, t'.vcejiting 
the additional width at waist required In- tlie 
measure. 

Figs. 8. St. l»t are the diagrams of a single- 
breasted vest, either of the collars hgs. l) or 
10. are suited to this forepart, and reiiresent 
two different styles of vest. — a collar of the 
shawl form, as represented on tig. (>. would 
also give another style or high-i-oll of the 
shawl form ; the collars are drafted with the 
scale, as the entire vest inav also lie. 






84 



DESCRIPTION OF PLATE 20. 



Fio-. J is ii diaui-.-mi iv]iivsfiiti)m- tlif iii.'a- 
sui-Piiienr of ]i;niT:iln()]is. How to take 7ii(-a- 
siiiv : Put tile to]) of yoiii- iiifasitre in at tlie 
liollow (,f waist ahove the liiji Ixnies. and 
apjily til.' iiicasinv down to kiii'p, wliidi we 
will sui)posp 24 inches, tlien to bottom of 
side 42 inches, we will then take measure of 
ley- l)y ].uttin,ii- the measure ch.se u]i into folk 
(.unless _\ou use an instrument for the ].iir- 
posp). and then a])i)ly the measure iit.ht 
down the side to what you think is a ])ro])er 
length, bring the nieasiiie also to the iq)- 
l>er pai-t of foot, which is usually a good 
criterion to Judge of the proj.ei- h^ngth. say 
:{2 inches, then ;i])i)ly waist measure around 
nt the hollow of waist, and hip measure at 
the most luominent ])artof hips. (In corpu- 
lent men we take thi-ee measures waist and 
one at the most ]iromineiii part of stomach 
iiiul one at the hips. I \V,. will su])])ose the 
waist and lii]> measure ivsj). .-lively in inches 
and 1!). In right ])aui.. we take" the thigh 
measure, dress and undress, and gi\c the 
]Ho]ier allowaiiri' for making up.— sa\ . dress 
side j]^,, iiiidivss II. knee, tight measure S. 
should he made up 8.1. bottom SA or accord- 
ing to fashion, elliptic, w hich should hetaken 
on dress side, fi-oni the exact poiul \(m 
started for side seam, draw the measure 
right through the foils and right o\'er hi^, ;,, 
the same ]ioiiit you started, say ;5;U. and 
allow I inch in its a]i]ilicalioii. 84A-. 

^Ve will now comiiience and draft tig. 2. 
How to draft iipjier side— draw construction 
liiu' from to 42. stpiare in top. then mark 
down side from 24 inches, and 42 or full 

length, rhele should he i iucll a(hled for 

making ii]i. then mark down from bottom :i2. 
with ^ inch added, or leg seam, s.piare those 
lines across, the line from ]() at side we will 

'■all the Ii f t'ork. mark in oii this line 

I'l'oin 10 UA iiichi's. or half lii)i measure, to 
star mark, then mark insi.h' from said star 
mark i the hi]) measure, which is 2;^ which 



we have marked on diagram 2A. and also 
1-6 to '.ii. then divide the distance from star 
!itUito2i, which is U, then divide the H, 
which is J, and draw line on the S([uare from 
tile ^ in from O.V or ]n^ to to];), and also draw 
the line from ]| to the same point at top, 
tlien add the l-d, 'S^g, and half hiji measure, 
i^ and t^ together, making 12^, then mark 
in from 10 at side one half of tlie 12g^, or 6:^, 
and also inside from 42 at bottom, and draw 
centi'i- line from 6^ at bottom to 8 at to]i, tlien 
mark outside from loi- at to]) half waist 8 
inches, then mark width of u])])er side at 
Ixittom, .{j inches on either side of center, 
draw line from lo at hi]) to 8i at bottom, and 
from 2A at fork to Hi at bottom, then niai-k 
the curves of u])})er side at fork to 2;l and I^J 
as rei)ri'seuted. and side ami l)ottom as 
model, then droj) the line down S inch from 
loi^atto]), which is re.iuiied in small waists 
and liiiish n])])er side. 

How to diaft under side : Draw dotted line 
of to]) outside to and also the line of f'oj-k 
inside to .")s. swee]) from S at sidi' to S at toj) 
hy 2rl at Ibrk, tlien add I.} inches inside at 
folk from :!,i. maiviiig 4i;. or f of hi]) measure 
from star mark at H.l. then ai)])ly \ our elli})tic 
measure from 3s at fork to 8. (hen from 4;' 
at fork to 'J 'Mi inches, thi' elli])tic being 83.1 
thus allowing I inch for making uj). then 
a])])ly waist measure. S inches on to]) of 
u])])er side, and from ceiitei' at S. making 
17 inches or half waist and I inch, and in 
order to avoid creases from forming under 
the hi]) we ailvise throwing on I.', inches 
inside at S from center liin'. and take out a 
\' e(|uivalent as marked by l.l. draw line of 
seat from 2A to bl at to]), mark .'>i inches on 
eitlier side of center at bottom, and form the 
h'g si'ani l)y draw ing a line from 2^, at fork 
to J of inch inside, from ."ii at l)ottom as a 
guide, and form leg seam from 4s by said 
line touching at knee, and to .Vl at bottom, 
a])]ily siat measure about 3.1 inches ii]) or 



/ '/„!,' -JO 




Plate 20.1 



83 



from wiicrc tlic line of scat crosses upjici- 
sidi', and add alioiit -'h inclics for luakiiiii' 
ii]i. Iln'ii a])|tlv measure at kiice il inches;, 
\vl:icli will make ii'ii about SA. and form 
your uiidi'i' side fiom '.) at to]) by the hip 
and knee measure to .").' at bottom. 

Fig. :> is drafted in the same way we have 
dc^seribed. e\ce]>ting I he side, wliich re- 
presents a side stri])e. In sueli cases draw 
ycuir side seam with a straight line from 8, or 
lialf waist, to :iA at bottom, then whatever 
yon have fallen off fidm h^at forl\ line should 
be adde(l tu nn(h'r side, and also apply the 
seat nn^asure and elli]>tic as we have de- 
scribed in tig. Land form your umh'r sid<^ 
by the measures. We recomnn-nd dropping 
the under side below the line of foj-k about 
i inch, as repi-esented in tig. 1, aiid stretched 
to that amount to make the jiants sit clear of 
any creases at this])oint. 

Fig. 4 is apairof })ants of the pegtop style. 
The leg seam is exit straight, and the e.xtra 
widths are thrown on the side, the ellijitic is 



large in these pants, being larger than tigs. 
1 or "i. which ])roves the customer had huge 
hi]is. althongli tiie waist measure is smallej-, 
the line of seat is diawn to center line at toji 
of seat to correspond with the elli]itic mea- 
sni-e, but it can be thrown back in this case 
as well as tigs. 1 and '2. 

Fig. .") lepresents ;i man witli small lii]is. 
The ellii>tic. it will l)e seen, is small, being 
at :W:}, and thus tlii-owing the line of seat 
well back. Men of this build are tlat behind, 
and round at side. Inning vei-y jnominent 
loin bones, which requires a good deal ol' 
r(Mind on this part of jiants. Tliere is iiotli- 
ing more in these ])ants calling for comment 
different from that we liave given. The two 
lines on either side of knee on tigs. 1 and 2 
are for the pnrpose of marking nnder side 
sliorter A inch at this i)oint, and stretching- 
underside to that amount, and then fulling 
said ^ inch gradually down ovei- the calf of 
leg in tight pants to form it to the shape of 
leg. 



36 



DKSCRIFTION OF PLATE 21. 



FiiT. 1 is t!it' diasram of a <'(n-pnV^iit iiian's 
pants (if lUfdiiuii diincnsioiis, or ow \\li<> 
lias his (•(iij)uli-iicy ])iftty well dmclnjicd all 
around, wliicli is gcniM-ally indicated liy tiic 
appi'iii'ancc, hut always discovcivd hy tlic 
appliration of tin- rlliptic incasuit', Avliicii is 
always more in this build than that of the 
put lifllifd structure. The waist and hi]) is 
put down at the same tigure, 'J4 iaclies each, 
(we ])erceive that (Uir engi-avei- has siiltsti- 
tuted the letter R for that of K in all these 
diag'i'anis, which was uieaut to indicate the 
knee), which is 12 in this case, liottoui 9.V. 
side 44, leg 82. We lay it down as a ]irinci- 
])le ill the ineasnreineiit of piints tlial in llie 
])roi>ortiouate structure there is always 
found a dift'ereiice of :? inches between waist 
and hip, thus Hi and 1!) are supposed lo be 
a medium fair ])roj)ortioi:<Ml stiuctniv, and 
when the waist is largv in pi-ojiortioii to the 
hi])S. as in the present case, we have laid it 
down as a niaxiiu. an 1 it is found lo be 
generally correct in piiu-tir', lo gi\<' two 
jiarts of the extra material to the front and 
the other to the side. In the present iiieas\ire, 
according to this juiuciple, the waist is :> 
inches larger than fair i)id])ortion, which 
would j'ecpiire 2 inchi's gi\ en to the front and 
the balance behind, but there is exce])tions 
to most of rules, and in the ai)iilicatioii of 
eliijitic measiuc we disco\eied that one half 
in front was better ada])ti'd to these ]iants, 
the hi]) bones lieiiig high and very prominent; 
it also should be raised | as much at top as 
it is advanced in front, and is therefore ad- 
vanced li and raised l^ ; the top we curve a 
little aud have it confined in a little in making 
up, so as to stiaigliteii it, as the prominent 
part of the thickness or roundness of stomach 
is usually about 3 inches lower down, and 
thus throw the fullness to this part, and in 
forming the front we cnr\c it so as to give 
more width about :] inches down, and carry 
it uiadiialh intothefork. Indeed we would 



a(hise taking a second measure here, in ex- 
treme cases. :> inches below the waist, aud if 
found to be .1 inch wider to add said I inch 
to the round of front :' inches below. In 
these ])auts thi' i41iptic measure is a])])lied 
and 1} inches added, establishing 12, and 
then the other half of waist to li, which we 
give extra for making u]i in cor])ulent men's 
pants : the other ])ortions of these iiauts are 
drafted the same way we ha\e exjilained 
I'Isewhere. 

Kig. 2 is a corjuileiit man's jiants aud are 
cut full falls. The measure is similar to that 
of tig. 1, the length of side is the same, but 
the leg is 1 inch shorter, and the raise I inch 
higher, and the liottoni is |of inch less ; they 
are drafted in the same way as the others, 
excepting ])eing raised \'i inches u]i from 12 
at to[) for the full falls. In these ])ants there 
is ;■; gi\en to the front aud A behind, 
markcfl 2 at front and raised lA at to]): the 
uiidei- side is di-o]ijie(l at fork \ inch below 
the line, and should be sti-etched to that 
amount. In these pants there should be 1^ 
inches extra given at to]) for making u]) and 
:> extra allowed in the ai)])lication of hi]) 
measure, the fall bearer should be cut to 
raise if inches higher than fall, and to have 
a vent about 4 inches down the side, and 
should be cut A inch wider than fall for the 
l)nri)ose of buttoning in front. In the widths 
of cor])ulent men's jiants all extremes should 
be avoided, as that of a medium wi<lth is 
entirely more becoming. 

Fig. H is the diagram of a pair of knee 
breeches to the following measure : Waist 
16, hip 19, knee 14f, side 27^, leg 1 7A. These 
breeches are cut for a waistband, luit can be 
changed to full fall b.y adding IJ inches at 
to]), as represented on fig. 2 ; they can also 
lie cut the old frog mouth style, by cutting 
a fall in from lo^ about o inches in length, 
and 2 in width at top, and 2i wide at bottom 
inside from u})])er side, and to raise 1 inch 



ridir'd/ 



si 




Plate 31. 



:{7 



liiulicr than U's iit to]), and stioiild )ia\c a 
welt sewed oil to the slit and made up .i inch 
in width, with a fall lieaier underneatii to 
button in front. At tlie bottom iialf the \\ idl h 

of knee is ni\-ell each v\a\ from the centre; 

2'Si is the knee and -'7,' is the liottom ; tliey 
are gentlv hollowed IVoni knee to bottom 
botli inside and ontsi(h', and the n]i]ier side 
is gentl}' curved around Ihe bottom, and the 
under sitle slightlv hollowed. Thev shoidd 
have a welt se'wed on and made u]t about i' 
of in(di wide, and a vent about -1 iiiclies long 
at side with 4 liuttons and hoh's. 

Fig. 8 is a ]«iii- of pants of luedium dimen- 
sions : the leg and side seam of under side 
is gentlv liollowed. .\s there is iiothinii- in 



these pants callinu- for furtlu'r notice we will 

Jiroceed to describe thr h^ooan or long nailer. 

hgs. 4. (), 7. Fin. 4 is liie outside of gaiter. 
and hg. li is the insi(h' and front. 4, II, •_>■. :! 
joins to d. Si. 7i. 7i;, and the toniine. lig. 7. 
isins<>ite(| into the eiil on tig. C, marked ,', 
iiif^idi- from 14 : the other poiiUs of the 
diagram aiv siiliieienlly iiulicaled without 
recpuring further explanation. Fig. .') is the 
diagram of a short gailej-. and is (Ira fled b\ 
the scale from the line of construction. It 
closes at side with 4 holes and buttons, and 
is hollowi'd in front by the numbers on the 
<liagram, and the bottom and he.4 should he 
fi irmed as model. 



88 



DESCRIPTION OF I'LATE 22. 



Fiji's 1, 2, o an' tlir diajifains of a ladv's 
])al(4()t or sliai)e'(l sack, and is dialti'd from 
tlic liiK' of coiistnii'tioii ill tii<' usual way. 
The collar, tig. 4. is adaiitcd to this iianucut 
and is designed to tit (dose aiouiid the slioul- 
di'i's. Tlip sU'cvc, fig. 7. is also adapted to 
cithtT these jialetots. and sluuild cdose with 
() huttons and holes down tiie front, and have 
patcll pockets. As we re]i|esi'llt tU(i ditterelll 
styles, but reseiuhling ejudi other in luanv 
respects, the instructions in tiie one case will 
also ap]ily e(pially to the other. 

Figs. 4, f). (). 7, S are diagrams of a very 
elegant styh' of lady's paletot. It is cut so 
as to ait ]ierlectly close at Ihe waist. Tiiese 
paletots are usually made in cloth, eithei- 
dral) or ligiit llaxana color. It ma_\ he 
trimmed with hhudv velvet, or lilaci< silk 
braid, as indicated on the diagram ; it may 
also be uiade in black (doth or \('l\('t, and 
trinuned with jiassemeiitei'ie. This is a kind 
of fancy Liimp mixed with jet, and is sohl \)\ 



the triunning houses in st^ts, whi<di usually 
consist of ornaments and buttons for the 
fronts, and also epaulettes, cuttsand jjockets, 
lfasim])!ei style of garment is retpiired it 
may !»■ made in cloth, with po(d\ets and 
buttons behind like a coat, and a slioil turn- 
oxer and collar, all the edges being iiinslied 
by a fancy luaid of ricdi silk. Figs, ."i ami ('< 
are the diagrams of baid-; and sideliody. the 
notch at the waist may be either jilacett 
at the natural waist, as indicated by 19^ and 
12, i>r it nuiy he ph-fed consideiably lowei-, 
as shown by 2:?i and \i> : the oinanients ai'e 
com])osed of braiti <h- silk coid, aii<l are eatdi 
headed by a liutton. F^igs. 7 and 8 are the 
sleeve and forejiart. AVe ha\e marked the 
jiosition of the jiockets ami the form of the 
trimming; the IVonts close hy three fancy 
buttons on eacdi side, which fasten l)y loo])S 
of silk braid : on Ihe slee\-e, tig, 7, we have 
indicated the shape of the ejianlettes and 
cuffs. 



i'ii(/,' ri 




Plate 2:1 




•so 



DESC'lUFnON OF PLATE 2;'.. 



Figs. 1. -J. 'A. 4 aiv till' (liagiains of a new 
ami iiovfl styU' of a la(l\ "s inantlc di dnak. 
sdiiiewiiat rfscmliliug an Imrnirss cluak. 
It is u<'ii.Tall_\ iiiadf in lilack clotli. and 
triiniiK'd by a silk cdrd i>\' niddcratf tliicis 
ncss, w-orkcd into an ornaintMital jiattcrn, as 
sjiown on tlir diaurain. TIm' IVonts fasten 
by fauc_\ l)uttons. Fig. 1 is tlic caiic. and is 
cut exactly like that of an Inveiness cloak. 
Fig. 2 is the ])iece foiniing the sli'e\e. and 
the foini of the tiinnuing is ver_\ beautifully 
indicated. Fig. li is the front, which is cut 
soinetliing like a paletot, with \en lai-gearni 
lioles. \Ve will now descril)e the nuinner of 
putting this garment togetlier : tiie shoulder^ 
seam of the front is sewed to the tiack IVom 
8j to A. and the side seam of the IVoiit is 
sewed to the side seam of the back from the 
bottom, as fai- as it \vill reacli ; the side seam 
of cajie maiked A. 1>. ('. 1 >. is sewed to the 
side of back tVom letter .\ lor point 0) to 
letters H, ('. and D : the loj, of cajM' A. 8|. 
K. is then sewed to the front from ]>oints A 
(.U i:iiito l(i| and E. following the dotted 
line between E and lOj. Fig. 4 is the hood, 
the line :q -. v, is the tVont. :{^. :ij. S] show the 
neck seam. S]. l.'>. 2n] gi\e the middle of 
bai-k. which should ha\e no seam, the dotted 
line ?;. -Jdrj is the ci-easi> line, and the corner 
Jii.'ce below this is Iblded uji, so that the line 
Sj. 'Jd.l foiins the seam of the hood. whi(di is 
co\ered b\ the oilia meMt<. as shown on the 
diagram. 

Figs. 'i. (■). 7. S, '.). Id are the diagiams of a 
lady's habit, or latlier. three ditfereni 
styles produced by three ditlerent styles of 
skirts. 'I'his habit is laid down by the rule. 
but has the numl)ers jilaced so as it can be 

also used b\' the scale. It is diafted to ihe 

following UK'asure : diauietei- h^nglhw ise 4], 
crosswise :>{. shonlder iiii'asuie 11 J. blade 
loj. sye measure l(i^, elliptic 11. dejith of 
sye on back ~i. natural waist \'>{. full length 
IfiA, leligtli of skirts 24^ and 'iS I-esj)ectively, 
l)r<'ast 17.1. waist 12^. How to diaft back ; 
draw bacdv line from o to 2S : the bottom of 
s\ e and natural waist is uiarked tin- same as 



frock i-oat. and the diameter lengthwise ap- 
plied in the same way : thi'ie is i inch added 
to the width of back foj- making uj), as there 
is no seam under a rm, and also in coid'ormity 
with the princi]ile that ladies' habits oi- 
basques lecjuireto be cut as wide in back 
and shoulders as ]>ossiljle; the other jxiints 
of the back are indicateil by the numbei-s on 
diagiam. Fig. (i is the forejiart, and is laid 
out l)y the measures, the sliorridei-. iilade, 
and sye rrreasirre bi'irrg a]i)ilied in their- re- 
spectixi' ])laces. arrd the location of shouldei' 
established b\ the liire dejitli of shoulder- 
being })laced oir the cerrtre line, arrd theaj)- 
j)licatiorr of blade measrrre the sarrre as frock. 
Ill the apjtlicatioir of the waist measirre the 
tislies slnuild be taken out in pr<i])or-tioii to 
waist measure to 14 and \^^h in half br-easf 
measure : it should be crrr\-ed a little from 
14 to \')h. and straight IVom that to liottonr : 
the fr-orrt is orrly ada]tted to close with hooks 
arrd e\cs: as there are sorrre which close 
with holes and Imttorrs. -,■ of an inch e.xtra 
shonld be added in such cases. Fig. 7 is the 
slee\i' ; it is of the tlglil -llttiug style, aird is 
(1 rafted with the scale li_\ the rirrmbeis on the 
diagr-am. l-'igs. S and It represent three dif- 
fer-eiit st_\ les of skirt adapted lo the sarrre 
foieparl. I''ig. S is the postillion -kii'I. \ eiy 
uar-row at IVorrt and sides, and of mo<ler-at<^ 
lerrgth behind. Fig. '.) is two drtfer-fUt styles 
of ski it ei I habits, the one rounded otVaml the 
othiM- jiointed. Fig. lo is the tr-ain or- loirg- 
skir-1. We merely r-epr-eseirt the to]i or- widths 
irr this diagr-am. It consists of 2.! breadths 
ofi-loth: the line IVom <'. downwai'ds is the 
fold of the lirst br-eadth. which is sloped of!" 
i; inches in fionl, gradrratirrg to riothirrgat 
the seam ; tin' half breadth is ]ilaced at the 
right side ; for- small sizes "i br-eadths may be 
used instead of -'.I. The length is usirally 
rrrled accordirrg to fashion, brrt as a general 
rule it should lie b") inc-lies in front and 24 
behirrd. longer- than the skirt of a dr-ess. It 
is i)laited orr a w aist-i>arid. which fasterrs by 
hook- and e\ e>. 



40 



DESCRIPTION OF PLATE 24. 



Fiij,'^. 1, 2, :>, 4, Dare the <lia,iii-ains of a 
ftisliionable skirt, and is dral'tcd in tli.- usual 
way from tlic line of constriK^tiou by tlic 
scale corresponding witli the hrcast measure. 
Fig. 1 is the l)a('k. ami tlie reader will per- 
ceive all its jioints at a- glance. Fig. 2 is the 
fi-oiit, and the ])oint is indicat(nl by the line 
from ni at toji to 4A at waist, where tli(- 
bosom, tig. 4. is placed: tin' line is gently 
curved near ."iA at to]), so as whoi the bosom 
is fitted in to adai)t itself to the round of 
cliest. Fig. :i is the sleeve, and tlie back and 
front is indicated by being marked. Fig. .T 
is the yolk, and tlie points o and 10 of yolk 
should be joined to and 11 on back, and 
wlien tli(> bosom is insei'ted, the points 5i 
and 'S of yolk should be joined to 2 and 1 1 
of front, which completes the arrangement. 

Figs. 6, 7, 8, fl. 1(1 are the diagi-ams of a 



jJi'ii^sT's or clergyman's sutan. This gar- 
ment is laid oiit so as to be drafted 'by the 
scale, but can as easily by di'afted to the 
measure b_\- the rule. It is cut single- 
breasted, and closes with :i8 buttons and 
holes (h)wn the front to the bottom of skirt. 
Fig. C) is the back, and is cut something like 
an overcoat, but longer at waist and skirt, 
the length of waist Ix^ing about 4^ inches 
h<'lovv natural waist, and is 3 in width, and. 
the length to l)()ttom of skirt is 59. Fig. 8 is 
the forepart, and the reader will perceive all 
its points from the diagram. Fig. 7 is the 
skirt, and is in the Shangliai form. Fig. 9 
is tlie sleeve, and has a vent of about 4 inches 
in length with two holes and buttons at 
sleeve hand. Fig. 1(> is the collar. This gar- 
ment is either made of tine l)]ack cloth oi' 
drali d'ete. 



r/nfr 2'/ 




INDEX OR 




CONTENTS OF THE WORK. 








I'h 


tcr 


ra-.- 


1 


lalr^ 


I '.I 


_'es. 


\ln\\ [<i riu'iisurc - . - - - 


1 


h tj 7 


1 )cscri|il ion of cor|iuleiii ni:iii'~ eo.at 








Vi'^. 1, ilc.'plli lit' s\'c (111 liiu-k Mini ii;i- 






ol the [loldtellN and extra erect 




















tiir:il waisi :iim1 lil.nlc iiic:isui-i'. 






"t met lire, with hn^ slidnlder, .and 
two slvle> of ihe >1 oo|iili'..;' strilc- 








with iiicMsiiriiiLi si|u;u'e. 




















t uic wit h hiuli shoulder 


1 1 


■JO Jl 


• )>> 


Fin'. -, ili;iiii<-'lcr Iciistli wise 






1 )esci-i|it ion of (ireek -ack .ind Sn.-in- 








Fie •'. iliaiiictiT ri'dsswisi'. 






1 1 
i-h niant le. or full circular cloak 


[■2 




J 3 


V'l'X- +, ^liduliltT, syc. aiiil (•llijilic 






1 )es( ri|it ion ol'lialf and I nree-ipiarter 








iiiiasiircs. 






ciriailar clo.iks _ . 


]■■'• 




J4 


FIl:. ■">, ili'i'tli (if syc (111 'iMt'k amViia- 














tural waist taken willi tin' incli 






Description ot (iarricd^ or Iii\(aness 








iiu-asiuv. 
Fiii'. li, lux'ast and w aisi iiica^urc. 






clo.ik w il h slec\ e 


14 




2.5 






Description of lioy"s sack and walk- 








Fiu'. 7, illustraliiiii df the rulu, :iii(l 






inu' co.al with sa(d< jacketN and 








tin.' |iriiici|)k' on wliicli it is lias^'ii. 






cadel, and liow to draft . 


I-'l 


; '-^c 


27 


Fii;-. n, I'stalilisiiini; cciil re all tlir(iiiu,li. 






Description of cliildreirs suit dresses, 
(ait.i w av jackcl with short hreeclies. 








How to (Irat'l (louliU'-lircaslcd tVock 






Slua-idan lilonse, dias^onal hlouse. 








coat and how to aji|iiy tli(_^ mea- 






^ 












and liarilialdi hlouse, with knicker- 








sures , - - . - - . 


^ 


,s (» 


liocker hreeclies 


ii; 


JS 


20 




Siii^lc-lireastc(l truck, and how to 














draft slcc\e and skirt, with walk- 






Description ot niilitary cloak and 






1 


inn' coat and two (litfcreiit styles of 






coat^ - - 


17 


l.s 30 


31 


skirt 


■^ 


lu 


l)cs(ription of vests, ami how to 










Two styles ol New \'(irk ualkiiiL: 
coat (if the rcLiislcr loriii, with 






ilrafi - 


lit 


•32 


33 




















I )escriiil ion of nanl-^, .and how to 








dress coat and ti'^s. show Iiil;' tile 






I 1 
measure and drafl iheiii, half 




















roll of lireast . . 


4 


u 


e'aitcrs, tii;hl tilliii'.:. willi side 








Doulilcd.reastcd coal of the reuister 






stripe, pc^' top> with l.ari;c hips, 








t'orni, with Knulish and \'c\\ York 






also small hips . — . . 


•JO 


:U 


35 


jackets . _ _ 


-■' 


I-.' la 


Description of eorpuleiil nnai's pants. 








Siiiulc-hrcaslcd sack coat, and liou to 






Iwd slvle-.. willi medium pants. 








draft 


(i 


14 


knee lireeclie^, Ioiil; u'ailers :iiid 








Doulile and siiit;le lireasted sacks, 






-hort 


2\ 


36 


37 


with New ^'ork walkini;- coat. . . 


7 


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Description of twai styles of lady's 




















Donhle lircaste(l ovcrcont of the rc- 






iialetot- -. - - 


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3,^ 


t;ister foriii and New N'ork sniioiil. 






1 








with thee\tr:i allowances 


fi; 


Hi 


Description of lady's maiille, with 
three st vies of liahits 


23 




39 


New \'ork snrtoiil with la|i|icl ur'"W- 














iiiU' with (hinhlcdMcastcd sack — 


11 


17 


Description of how to (ail a shirt. 








Description ot' t w o si vies of cor|inlciit 
men's coats 






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